- Written by John E. Johnson, Jr.
- Published on 26 April 2010
- Earthquake Sound SWAT 2.4 Wireless Transceiver
- Page 2: Design of the Earthquake Sound SWAT 2.4 Transceiver
- Page 3: The Earthquake Sound SWAT 2.4 Transceiver In Use
- Page 4: The Earthquake Sound SWAT 2.4 Transceiver On the Bench
- Page 5: Conclusions About the Earthquake Sound SWAT 2.4 Transceiver
- All Pages
I decided to really put this product through the wringer by setting up three transceivers in my home theater lab, each operating on a different frequency. Transceiver 1 would drive my front left and right subwoofers, Transceiver 2 would drive the LFE subwoofer, and Transceiver 3 would drive the rear channels.
Pairing the three units was very easy. I just pressed the CH button three times for transceiver 2 and six times for transceiver 3 (transceiver 1 was already paired at the factory setting). They all then operated independently. I simply connected the subwoofer and LFE pre-outs on my SSP to to transmitters 1 and 2, and the rear channel pre-outs to transmitter 3. I placed receivers 1 and 2 near the subs, and ran the output cables from the receivers to the RCA input jacks on the left and right subwoofers, and the output of receiver 3 to the inputs of (two) subs that I use for the LFE. Receiver 3 was placed behind my couch and connected to the inputs of two Bryston PowerPro 120 monoblock power amplifiers which had speaker cables that ran up the corners to my rear speakers. I chose the Bryston's due to excellent build quality, their ability to drive low impedance loads (planar speakers are notorious for this), and also because of their low profile (they fit easily under the couch). They also run cool when idle.
So, basically, I eliminated several sets of long cables that ran from the SSP to four subwoofers, and also eliminated speaker cables from the power amplifier on my equipment rack to the rear speakers (these cables normally ran along the molding at the top of the side walls).
I used some Velcro® 2" wide strips (Cat # PN-90595) to attach the transmitters and receivers to the wall behind my equipment rack, but they can be placed on the floor if you want. I just like to keep the floor as clear as possible for cleaning purposes.
I did run into some issues with whistling noises, but this seems to be a problem that is addressed by arranging the input and output cables so that they don't act as antennae themselves.
In any case, I was delighted with the results. One bit of serendipity was that a ground loop hum in one of the subs that had been driving me crazy disappeared, because there was no longer a direct wire connection from the SSP to the subwoofer.
Here is a photo of three transmitters and two receivers mounted on the wall. The transmitters are on the right and the receivers are on the left. You don't have to mount them this close together, but I plan to experiment with them, and I need them close so I can press the CH buttons on the transmitter and receiver without having to disconnect anything. Notice that the antennae are not all pointed in the same direction. You have to play around with the direction to find the best reception. If you look down near the bottom, on the power strip, there is another transmitter with its antenna sticking straight up. This is my wireless lighting controller. So, you can begin to see that it can complicate things to have several wireless components in your setup, all operating on the same frequency bands. Transmitter 3 on the right doesn't have its input cable connected as I was in the middle of some other tests. The cable that comes with the transceiver has unbalanced RCA plugs. My SSP has XLR balanced outputs, so I bought some 1/8" stereo plug-to-XLR Female adapter cords from AudioGear priced at $12.89 (the item at the bottom of the linked page). You may also need an extension cable for the audio connection. I used Radio Shack Cat # 42-2492.