8. Test fit the drivers in the holes you just cut and adjust if necessary.

9. With the driver in the cutout, for both the Front panel and the Isobaric Top, mark the locations of the screws along the perimeter of each driver.

10. Drill though each panel at the location of each screw. The drill bit size used should match the diameter of the screws your will be using.

Tip: Keep drill perpendicular to the panel.

11. Working from the inside (as you marked earlier) of the Front panel and Isobaric Top, mount the T-nuts in the holes you just drilled. You'll need to slightly enlarge each of the holes you just drilled for the screws to a depth of the T-nut (depth depends on the T-nut used) in order to countersink the nuts. Test fit your depth on one of the T-nuts. If correct, smear a little of the Gorilla Glue on the nut and tap into each hole.

Tip: The glue serves a number of purposes: sealing around the nut, reducing any possible of vibration of the nut, and (practically) to ensure that the nut does not fall in the cabinet if the drivers are removed.

12. Repeat steps 8-11 to mount the two 2" ports in the Top panel.

Tip: Use the top portion of the flared port as a guide. Mark the proper screw locations in the plastic.

Tip: Align the screw holes along the center line of the top of the box you drew earlier.

Tip: Make sure to use the T-nut with the correct thread! Since we chose to use different screws to mount the ports (round head black Phillips) than we did for the drivers, there's a chance for using the wrong thread.

13. On the Bottom panel, mark a point in each corner 2" from each edge for the mounting of the spike feet. Pre-drill the mounting hole for the spike feet per the instructions provided with the feet.

The kit I listed comes with T-nuts, so be sure to follow the tips I listed earlier as you install them.

14. On the Back panel of the box, using the WBT binding posts as a reference, mark and pre-drill the holes for the external binding posts 5" from the bottom of the box along the centerline. Also, glue the backside of the mounting kit to the inside of the panel to ease later assembly.

15. Cut the 1" oak dowel rod into two lengths. For the length, I'd suggest matching the dimensions of the Bottom panel.

16. Assemble the bottom portion of the ports per the directions included with the ports. DO NOT glue the top flare on yet!

17. Dust off and set aside the pieces, you'll need them all later.

Pre-Assembly -  Does it look like the Picture?

With everything measured and cut, pre-assemble the box to see how things line up. Now's the time to find out if any mistakes were made!

18. Assemble the entire outer box. Starting 1" from each side and every 4" thereafter, attach the adjacent panels with countersunk screws. At this point do not glue the box together, you may need to disassemble things

Tip: When assembling the box sections, keep in mind the final dimensions of the box. For example, the front and back panels will overlap the sides, and the thickness of the front and back panels plus the width of the side panel will equal the final dimension. A quick check is to test fit the top or bottom panel.

Tip: For a number of reasons, when I started to construct the box, I anticipated a number of iterations on the box - and I was right. Even working from something like this 'cookbook', you'll need to break down the box at times.

Tip: For the project, I chose to use square drive coated deck screws. In my experience, the square drive screw holds up better than Phillips head when a box is assembled / broken down multiple times.

Tip: Although MDF is inexpensive and has good acoustic properties, remember that it is not the most robust material. Screws driven into the sides of the board are susceptible to stripping - so make sure to use a pilot hole through both panels you are about to join, and don't over tighten.

19. Assemble the Isobaric Chamber much the same as you just did for the main box. But in this case, since it is unlikely that you'll disassemble this piece, go ahead and screw and glue the whole thing - just don't attach it to the main box.

Tip. As one other assurance to make sure the chamber is sealed, caulk the interior seams of the box.

20. Verify box dimensions. If things don't line-up, time for some rework. Don't worry, the second time just has to be easier!

Tip: If the dimensions are pretty close, but the seams don't quite line up, that's ok, we can fix it later. Oh the suspense on how we'll do it!!

Click Here to Go to Part V.