Home Theater Reviews Categories
Chris Heinonen - Monday, 06 February 2012
Of all the new equipment that I saw at the CEDIA Expo in Indianapolis in 2011, my favorite booth visit was to Pioneer. Showing me around their booth and their new products, it was obvious they had read our review of their last generation of Blu-ray players. So, here is another one, in this case, the BDP-52FD, which is 3D-capable, and will play DVD-A as well as SACD, making it a universal player.

Kevin Lichterman - Thursday, 02 February 2012
Like most people I have some pet peeves. When I shop for televisions, I am always hoping to find one without speakers. I have a dedicated theater with speakers and electronics that are leaps and bounds ahead of what I could possibly get in a TV. I don’t need speakers; I’ll never turn them on. I don’t want them! Simply having them adds cost, complexity, and size to my TV. I don’t want to pay for what I won’t use! So, instead of TV's built-in speakers, a receiver will deliver much better quality sound, and surround sound at that. NAD's new T757 is reviewed here, and it does the job well.

written by Shadez , February 03, 2012
That explanation on video processing is just a lame excuse that basically means "we suck at video". Plenty of other companies get it right, it's not like it's an impssible task. Still, I applaud the decision to realize their weaknesses, and leave out video processing altogether, instead of inclusing a processing that suck (like in previous versions...).
Chris Heinonen - Monday, 30 January 2012
I’ve reviewed a fair number of receivers, and owned a fair number of them myself as well. The unit that I was the most sad to part with was the Pioneer SC-27 a couple years ago. With its Class D amps, it was fast and powerful, but not harsh. The new SC-57 is a 9.1 receiver, with Class D amplification, but Pioneer has built the amplifier modules themselves rather than using ICEPower modules. Was the sound different? Read on . . .

Chris Eberle - Wednesday, 25 January 2012
When designing a home theater, the screen is often the last consideration in the plan. After all, it’s much more interesting to research electronics and their associated specs than to look through screen material samples and frame designs. Other than size, few of us think much about our choice of screen. Screen Innovations markets projection screens in all sizes, aspect ratios, and gain (screen brightness). In this review, we take a look at their Black Diamond Zero Edge projection screen.

written by roadster-s , January 25, 2012
Sorry, but IMO it simply doesn't make sense when compared to today's thin panels TV's. Reserved for the rich and famous who simply never ask: How much does it cost?
written by Jim , January 25, 2012
Thin may be in, but you'll never have a real home THEATER experience until you have watched a great movie on a screen/projector system. No matter how big the TV, it'll only be HOME theater.
Great review, Chris!
written by ChrisHeinonen , January 25, 2012
Comparing a 92" screen to a 60" TV isn't accurate. The closest screen in size to this is an 85" Panasonic Plasma, which goes for between $20,000 and $30,000, depending on model. You can get a really nice projector, and speakers, and receiver along with the Zero Edge and still be below that.
written by Josuah , January 25, 2012
@roadster-s Unless your thin panel TV is over 100" in size (in which case it is much more expensive and difficult to install than a projector setup) then it's an apples to oranges comparison.
written by roadster-s , January 27, 2012
Looking at Sharp's 80 inch LED for around 5K street price. And others are entering in that size arena. This screen with a decent LCD projector will hit 6-7K by the time everything is installed. Add the practicality of a TV (no filters to clean or lamps to replace) and it's simply my opinion that a projector's place is in a dedicated HT room, not as an everyday component like this is portrayed in it's application...
written by ChrisHeinonen , January 29, 2012
Having seen the 80" Sharp LCD in person, it's not a set I would pay $5,000 for. They had new models at CES that looked better, but the previous ones suffered from huge contrast shifts at very small off-axis angles, and it really was not a wonderful looking set. It's also a 120 lb. panel to hang on your wall instead of a screen that you can manage yourself. And you're still topping out at 80" for any reasonable price, as going to 85" is going to $20,000 or more.
The Black Diamond screen surfaces do a great job with lighting in most situations, and are one of the few screen surfaces I'd use for a living room that wasn't light controlled. We're also going to get close to where you can get an LED projector for the living room that can run all day long with no light loss, and use less power than an LCD does. They're really different applications, but having seen both the Edge and the Sharp 80" in person, I'd take the Edge for picture quality.
written by Denny , February 02, 2012
$3K for a screen and $3K for a Projector (JVC, Epson, Panasonic all have 3D options at that price) is a excellent value for a 92" or 100" even. Also consider that the screen doesn't go bad. Only physical damage will cause the screen to not work. Therefore every 3-5 years, you can replace just the projector and have the most up to date technology. Try doing that with 100" TVs. You would spend significantly more over time.
Jim Clements - Monday, 23 January 2012
Energy speakers have been around since 1973. They came into prominence with the Pro 22 and later with the Veritas v2.8 speakers which were a big hit in the mid 90’s. At an MSRP of around $6,000, the Veritas v2.8’s were known for an excellent price/performance ratio. Here, I'll review their latest iteration of the Veritas line, the V-6.3's in an all-Veritas 5.1 system!

Piero Gabucci - Monday, 16 January 2012
Pssst….want to hear a really cool speaker, but you have to keep it a secret. The voice was familiar but I looked around for the white van, none to be seen. Sure, but they’d better not have fallen out of the back of a truck I replied. Nah he said just come up to my private room in this hotel. Up the exterior stairs we went to his suite, nice. Now I want to show you what’s in this other room behind this curtain. Hmmmm. There they were, the Definitive Technology BP-8040ST SuperTower Speakers. And then they were here, for me to review. Review done. Read on.

written by Jon Sven , January 16, 2012
Is it me or does it feel like you're lifting the skirt off a woman anytime you want to get a peek at the drivers of a Def Tech speaker?
These speakers have nice bass and treble but are fatiguing over a long period of time. I used to own Def Tech towers. I am much happier with Salk.
Gabriel Lowe - Monday, 09 January 2012
Having both reviewed and owned several Onkyo receiver models over the last few years, I have come to expect an excellent product that is both packed with features and performs extremely well. The Onkyo TX-NR809 network receiver was announced in May of 2011, and right away, it made me salivate. So, here is the review.

written by Eric , January 16, 2012
I purchased an 809 today for under $700 and look forward to getting it later this week. I use an iTouch running a custom web/application to control my AV equipment and I was dreading updating it to utilize all of the features. I had no idea there was already an iOS application to do this. I will stick to the basics and use the available app to do the heavy lifting. Really glad I read this review before I started. This is my fourth Onkyo receiver, I am yet to be disappointed.
Ross Jones - Wednesday, 04 January 2012
Crystal Acoustics is an Internet-direct manufacturer that specializes in THX certified 5.1 and 7.1 systems. I’ve reviewed two sets of Crystal Acoustics 5.1 systems, both of which earned high marks for their high value at low cost. Those systems incorporated a THX Select certified subwoofer. The unit reviewed here is the TX-12SUB THX ULtra2 Certified subwoofer.

written by Scott , January 04, 2012
It is noted in the review that 4 subs are required to acheive the THX Ultra Cert. So a $3,000 investment is required to acheive the results/performance which will satisfy the THX Ultra requirements.
the performance and measurements of the single unit you tested still seem to be a good value.
Upon going to the companies web site the only subwoofer offered in the US is: NOTHING. Crystal Acoustics does not offer a subwoofer product to the US market.
I thought Secrets should be aware of that last fact.
written by Greg , January 04, 2012
And their store is on Ebay.
http://myworld.ebay.com/crystalac-usa/?_trksid=p4340.l2559
written by Scott , January 05, 2012
Greg,
That's good information! CA might want to note that on their main website. Kind of a disconnect there of sorts. The Ebay seller appears to be the legit CA company - or one assumes from the about the seller section any how.
Thank you.
written by EJ , January 06, 2012
I wonder if you can just get the amp upgrade since I own the thx-12sub?
written by Vassilios Valimitis , January 24, 2012
Dear all,
We are as eager as you are for the TX-12SUB to be available again in the US! We now have a conformed availability for February 10!
The increasing demand during the Holiday season has depleted our stock.
Check back in a few weeks on www.crystalaudio.com! :-)
Regards,
The Crystal Acoustics Team
written by Lafonte , February 01, 2012
Good Afternoon. I had to rub my eyes after first seeing the specs on this amazing sub. With the capability of going to the deep 15hz range with just a 12 inch woofer. That is amazing. And the price is incredible also. My first choice based on price and capabilities was Hsu Research.But now I read about Crystal. I respect the reviews from this site "Secrets of Home Theater" and will see if they also reviewed Hsu's sub. This will help me make up my mind which sub to get and then buy two.
Robert Kozel - Monday, 02 January 2012
While I was at CES 2011 last January, I had the opportunity to listen to a speaker demonstration from a company called GoldenEar Technology. The man doing the demonstration was none other than Sandy Gross, the co-founder of Polk Audio back in 1972 and Definitive Technology with Don Givogue in 1990. GoldenEar Technology is a new startup, and although their portfolio of speakers is small now, the models they have available are very good, as evidenced by the TritonCinema Two system, which - although only having five enclosures - is a true 5.1 system because of the powered subwoofers in the towers.

written by Sion lim , January 03, 2012
I can't figure out how to turn the bass down. Even with the vol control set to min. It's still overwhelming. The speakers are about 2 ft from the wall and turned in about 7 ft apart the room is small about 15x15 every time I play it my neighbors complain a storm. Do I need to place them even further from the back walls and into the room? I do like the sound they produce except the scary bass. I'm a tube guy and never came across this problem before. I primarily use this for 2 channel listening .
Amp a very mellow music maker ayon spirit 3 30 watt x2 triode.
Oppo 95 and my computer is its main source.
Cables are from zu wax speakers and balanced zu interconnects
written by Miguel Casellas , January 04, 2012
i have an OPPO 93 an Anthem MRX 700 and honestly they sound great for movies, but not very satisfied with regular cd music, am i doing something wrong or perhaps i need a better electronics?
written by Robert K. , January 04, 2012
Sion,
Based on your description, it doesn’t sound like a room placement problem, but rather a potential problem with the electronics in the speakers. Does the bass level change when you adjust the volume control on the Towers? If the level doesn’t change, then it might be the input board in the towers. Either way, you should contact GoldenEar or your dealer and they can help you resolve the issue. You can contact GoldenEar at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it '> This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or call them at (410)998-9134. Remember to get the serial numbers from your speakers before you contact them.
Robert
written by Robert K. , January 16, 2012
Miguel,
Before you look at changing amplification, I might suggest that you try rerunning your ARC setup and set the maximum EQ frequency to 1.5 kHz instead of the default of 5 kHz. This may make a difference for you. I would also suggest contacting GoldenEar directly as they may have some other suggestions.
Robert
Stephen Hornbrook - Wednesday, 28 December 2011

written by Rob H. , December 28, 2011
I had very similar observations when viewing the HMZ-T1. Being front heavy, I did tend to want to tilt my head forward and down. I also noted the pixel separation.
Nothing about the HMZ-T1 indicated to me that the design could not be further refined and improved though. Higher resolution OLED panels would improve the pixel density. I'm certain the current 720p resolution has more to do with price than anything, so that seems like a very likely improvement in a future version.
The balance of weight can be adjusted, I imagine. I think Sony was just trying to make the unit as light as possible overall. I wouldn't have minded a heavier unit overall that was better balanced with a counter-weight in the back.
The last problem really seems to be all source related. Cutting the resolution in half on 3D games is just due to current hardware. There's certainly hope that the PS4 and Xbox720 will be able to pump full 1080p resolution to each eye! As for 3D movies, I think it's all about shooting the movie in 3D vs. using the stupid "3D conversion" after the movie is already shot in 2D. I've a feeling Avatar would look rather spectacular on a headset like this. Converted 3D movies...not so much.
The HMZ-T1 isn't really something I would recommend to most people. But I think it shows a lot of promise. Sony needs to get a direct line into the headset - no more breakout box. Frankly, the weight of having the connections on the headset itself could counter balance the current front heavy design. With no separate box, higher resolution and better weight balance, a unit like this could be a spectacular portable 3D screen! Connect a future smartphone and you'd be all set! There would have to be the option to use your own headphones though ;)
written by Mike , January 02, 2012
Sitting 12 feet away gets you a 150 inch image? I have a 60 inch Sony KDS-R60XBR1 that I sit 14 feet from, so how big of an image should I expect to get or is the 12 foot rule mandatory?
written by Chris Eberle , January 03, 2012
Mike, according to the calculator at http://myhometheater.homestead...lator.html a 150" image viewed at 12 feet results in a 49 degree viewing angle. Your setup results in a 17 degree viewing angle. THX recommends a 36 degree viewing angle so you would have to sit 6.7 feet away from your TV to achieve this.
Chris Heinonen - Monday, 26 December 2011
One of the major differentiations between Blu-ray players now has been their online content support. With more and more people getting their movies and TV shows from Netflix, Hulu, and other sources, the ability to access all of these easily from one device has become more important than ever. The Samsung BD-D6500 Bly-ray player, reviewed here, fits the bill.

written by David Urban , January 02, 2012
I only use Blu ray players for Blu Ray or Dvds, I don't care about the internet items. Having tested and returned The Sony S780, S580, LG 670, I kept the Panssonic BDt210 and the samsung BD D6500. The best blu ray picture came from the BD D6500. I can't imagine a blu ray player topping the picture quality of the Samsung BD D6500. My friends came over and saw a large difference in quality between the Samsung and Panasonic. The Panasonic does a tiny bit better on DVD upconversion. I kept both, Samsung for Blu Ray discs and Panasonic for DVD upconversion.
written by ChrisHeinonen , January 03, 2012
David,
If you are seeing drastically different images from these two players on Blu-ray media, it makes me think that something is setup incorrectly. Either a scene mode or something else is enabled on one, or you are sending different colorspaces and your display handles one better than the other. Both tested nearly perfect on the HDMI Bench Test, and so the output from them should be identical to what is on the disc. Any difference between the image should only be due to a difference in the setup of the devices, or how they are connected in your system, as they should both look the same at that point.
written by David Urban , January 05, 2012
Chris
Both machines are setup up using audioquest chocolate hdmi at 2m. They are attached to a 47" Toshiba 1080p tv. The panasonic setting was on fine for picture quality, 1 for detail clarity and 1 for super resolution. The picture was excellent. The Samsung was set on Dynamic first and compared and then on User with Sharpness at +3, Contrast at +1 adm Noise reduction at +1. The picture was stunning and beat the panasonic. 5 individuals saw the same up grade. Even DVD upconversion was stunning. This is what I and my friends saw, bench tests or not.
I would recommend either of these machines.
written by ChrisHeinonen , January 05, 2012
I no longer have the Samsung around, but since I bought the Panasonic, I can test it with those settings enabled later. If you are using the Samsung on Dynamic mode, that introduces color errors of dE 10+ across most of the spectrum, so while you might prefer the image, it is nowhere close to accurate for its output.
The best bet, IMO, would be to set both to their Normal picture modes and then adjust your display to match the image you want. If you're after an accurate, neutral, calibrated display, neither of those settings are going to get you that, but if you're after a certain look you're likely better off settings the players to neutral and then adjusting the input on the TV to get the image look you are after.
What I'm really getting at is that there is no difference in image quality from the machines (as far as Blu-ray is concerned), you just prefer the color shifts added by one of the scene modes in one, which can also be done on your display. It's a personal preference over a performance issue.
written by David Urban , January 06, 2012
Chris I appreciate your work with the machines. I also enjoy reading your reviews. But there are differences, they are not the same picture. You would have to test all the settings of each and every machine. The enhancements are there for a reason. Shutting off the enhancements and taking measurements defeat the purpose of the enhancements.
This is why people will see differences in picture quality, it is a real world comparison using the blu ray players enhancements. People don't watch bench marks using a neutral machine.
Incidently sound wise the panasonic with high clarity sound is a hands down winner for audio.
written by ChrisHeinonen , January 06, 2012
I've attempted to test all of the settings with all of the players that have come through now in an attempt to better understand what all of the settings do. However, there's a large difference between what you appear to be looking for and what we are looking to test in our player benchmarks as well.
If you want to see the Blu-ray as the director and content producer intended, with the bitstream identically matching what is on the disc, then the normal picture modes on both players will do that, provided you use the correct colorspace output as indicated on the bench tests. If you have a display that is calibrated to the Rec 709 (HDTV standard, with a D65 white point) then you will see how the movie or content was intended to be seen by the people that made it. With this setup, there would be no difference between the players.
As soon as we start using the picture modes like Dynamic, we're getting into personal preferences, and not something that is matching the standards for Blu-ray or HDTV media. With Dynamic mode on the Samsung, for example, when we would expect a value of 128 for Red, Green, or Blue (50% intensity), we are instead getting a value of 149, or 58.5% intensity. All that Dynamic is doing is really pushing the intensity of the picture up, which makes for a brighter picture, but one that then sacrifices dynamic range and no longer looks at all like what the content originally was on the disc. You can do this yourself with your display by using the controls, or you can use the modes inside of the player to do this.
The issue is that none of the companies do a good job of documenting what any of these modes do, they just say things like "Produces a brighter image" or something similar. Some of these modes could cause color shifts, making a neutral gray now be blue or red or green tinted, or reduce dynamic range, or cause effects that destroy highlight or shadow detail. Dynamic on the Samsung destroys highlight detail, you are effectively losing all values from 200-235 on a calibrated display, and all values above 217 no matter what because of this. So a snow covered peak will just appear to be solid white and totally flat instead of having subtle shades with ridges and texture. It also causes a loss of shadow detail by rising out of black far too quickly than it should.
Since Blu-ray and HDTV have specifically defined standards, we look for equipment we review to meet those standards. We want projectors and displays to do the color gamut and white point correctly, and we want Blu-ray players to put out HDMI information that meets this standard. Then you know when you buy these components and use them together, you will be viewing the material on the discs exactly as it was intended to be seen.
If you want something with more pop, then you can adjust your TV or use the player to what your personal preferences are. However, we are not going to write that it looks "better" when it's actually not meeting the specifications correctly, as then it's a matter of personal preference and that is going to vary wildly between people. Additionally, combining a player with incorrect output on a display that is correct, or has been calibrated by an ISF or THX technician, is then still giving you an incorrect image, but one that you're expecting to be correct as the display is right.
People will see differences in quality if they use these incorrect modes, or their display isn't calibrated to the standards. If people prefer it that way, then they should keep it that was because it makes them happy. However, since the enhancements cause unknown changes to the picture, and always have negative effects on the image (you might find the positives outweigh the negatives in your view, but there are always negatives to going away from the standard) we will continue to recommend the modes that create the correct output. We may comment on the different modes, but the "enhancements" will always cause the picture to no longer be accurate.
written by David Urban , January 06, 2012
Chris
Well written, but the fact of the matter is the picture is sharper, shawdows are well defined and white peaks have definition to them. Yes it is brighter, that is why I set up my user picture. This is the way the picture is intended to be. I recommend taking a copy of the blu ray "Forbidden Planet-$7.50 at BB" and play it on the Samsung BD D6500 and see all the detail that was intended. Samsung says the Dynamic picture setting increases sharpness. From what I have seen, they are correct. My user setting is +3 for sharpness, +1 for contrast and +1 for noise reduction, if you wish to use it. Similar picture for Dynamic without the that much brightness.
This discussion is excellent and more than I thought it would be, I thought I would just leave a comment and that would be it.
One other small thing, please don't say to some one, "you are not actually seeing what you are seeing on the screen", it is a ridiculous statement, I don't believe you would say that, would you?
It is a performance and personal issue. Time to put away the testing equipment and watch the movies as a blind test, the way I did with my friends.
Keep up the reviews as I enjoy them, but also have individuals sit and actually watch the picture, not for 5 minutes but longer.
written by ChrisHeinonen , January 06, 2012
I don't have the Samsung player here anymore, nor do I have a copy of Forbidden Planet, all I can do is go through the data and what it says. We didn't test User Mode on the Samsung, as with all the different adjustments what we did would result in something different than what any user did, and so we tested Dynamic, Movie, and Normal. Normal was perfect in our testing, and is the only mode I would suggest anyone use if they want the most accurate picture. For Dynamic, here's a quick chart showing the values on disc on the left, and the values output by the player on the right, for some key numbers.
Disc -> Player
0 -> 16
16 -> 16
38 -> 42
64 -> 73
128 -> 148
192 -> 224
200 -> 234
218+ -> 255
Video content on a Blu-ray disc is authored from 16-235. You can have values above the WTW (235) point, but you are unlikely to see them on a calibrated display. As you can see on the chart, the Black point (16) is correct. Once you get to the 10% (10 IRE in the analog video world) you are at 42 instead of 38, so you are coming out of shadows much quicker than you should. Once you get to 50% (128), you are at 148, which is almost the 60% value. Once you get to 192, are you really at 224, which is just below the WTW (white clipping) point.
A value on disc of 200 is the WTW point. This means on a calibrated display, you won't see any difference between 200 and 234. That is 16% of your dynamic range that is totally lost and can't be brought back. If you don't have your display calibrated to clip WTW at 235 (though some receiver and processors do it for you), then once you get to a value of 218 on the disc, you are at 255, the max value for white. There is no display that could show you any value above 218 at this point, as 255 is the maximum output value for RGB here, and every point above 218 just outputs 255 as well.
When I watch a movie, I can't possibly tell you what it was supposed to look like since I didn't shoot it, I didn't edit it, and I didn't master the Blu-ray disc. However, I can tell you through our testing that we can let you know if your display and Blu-ray player will show you the content on the disc correctly. If you don't have them setup correctly, you might never know that The Matrix has a blue-green color tint throughout, or that Traffic varries wildly in film processing as you watch it. Your display could be showing you something completely different, and you could assume that was correct since it looks "more accurate" to you than the other modes, but it would have no correlation to what was put on the disc.
Unless you actually helped in the creation, you can't say for sure that "Forbidden Planet" has "all the detail that was intended" or "This is the way the picture is intended to be". You can say that you believe you see more detail with the Dynamic setting, but I can also assure you that you aren't seeing the same thing that was on the disc, which is what we are after.
We also test the noise reduction, sharpness, and other controls in the player to see how they perform with tests. Noise Reduction can work well on some things, but as we watch it reduce noise, we also watch it strip away fine detail in the image. With sharpness it can make certain things stand out more, but it also adds a high amount of ringing and edge enhancement to objects as well. These can sometimes be harder to notice with real world material, and so we supplement that with test patterns that bring these to our attention more easily. Pioneer's Blu-ray players from last year had built in Edge Enhancement that you couldn't defeat and on the first movie I watched, it was very dark and the ringing wasn't apparent, but on further material, and on test patterns, it showed up very easily with dark objects on bright backgrounds.
I watch multiple movies on every Blu-ray player that comes through. I have favorites that I always watch, and new titles that are always arriving. However, the eye is also easily fooled by a shift in color temperature which is why anyone that calibrates a TV uses instruments and not their own sight, since it adapts too easily to a change.
I'm not saying that you don't think that you see more detail with this setting, or that you prefer this setting to the normal setting. All I'm saying is that the settings you are using are presenting an image that is different than what was recorded on the disc, and so that is why you are seeing a difference between this and the Panasonic. I'm also saying that if you use Dynamic, there are elements of the image that were recorded on disc that it is impossible to see on a display because of what Dynamic mode does to the image. You can think you are seeing everything, but if the player is putting out a value of 255 over HDMI when it should be something below that, there is no possible way to see it.
Thanks for reading the reviews, and by all means enjoy the Blu-ray players however you would prefer them to be setup. Just understand that adding that extra bit of Brightness or Sharpness that you like is going to have a consequence in Dynamic Range or Edge Enhancement that is unavoidable as well.
written by ChrisHeinonen , January 06, 2012
I went through and made a graph showing how the Samsung handles the different picture modes, compared to reference values:
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/2857/picturemodesgrapy.png
You can see the WTW line visible there, above which detail might not be visible. Once the graph hits the top of the chart, detail is certainly not visible, as it's not possible. You can see that the Dynamic mode crosses much faster than either the reference or the Normal mode. You can see that Movie mode never crosses, so this mode works well on a display set for PC levels instead of video.
Perhaps I'll try to do charts like this in the future if it helps illustrate it for people, so you can see that it's veering off of reference and losing detail in the process.
written by angryht , January 10, 2012
Brilliant, Chris, this discussion should be a sticky over at the avsforum and the Cave. Perfect illustration of 'what people want to see' compared to what the director intended. Your explanations are so spot on and well written!
In trying to decide which player to get, I'm torn between this and the Panasonic 210. Seems like the Pany might win. I am curious about the way the benchmark results are shown. I know - I should read the Primers (again). And I will. I really liked the way I used to be able to look up all of the DVD (SD DVD - old benchmark) results in one table and compare the scores. Is there such a spreadsheet for the blu-ray players. Seems like the old spreadsheet is not around anymore.
Thanks again for all your hard work on the testing!
written by David Urban , January 11, 2012
I read all the graphs and comparisons that you have written and I must say that you are excellent when using the different machines. To make your tests even better, have 2 or 3 people actually see the movies in a blind test. To see if they see a difference. Then I would say that all the bases will be covered. I know you ran into trouble with people on the Blu Ray forum over the Sony s570 and s580 when the individuals saw a better picture than what your numbers said. Seeing is believing.
I saw "Forbidden Planet", my favorite movie many times in the movie theater, owned it on VHS, DVD and Blu Ray. I have seen it on TV many times and the sharpness and picture on the Samsung, using the User setting or the Dynamic setting is excellent and accurate. I stand by what I say as do my friends. The Panasonic gives an excellent picture (I use fine, advanced chroma, +1 for Reality Clarity and +1 for Super Resolution. But, the Samsung is better.
I would not like my comments to be put on the AVS forum, as that forum is biased toward in favor of its' sponsors. Oppo is too dominating as is Monoprice and Belkin.
The AVS forum is not a discussion forum but a high attack forum on people who dislike some of their sponsors products, I believe Yamaha is another sponsor.
I hope that you will test the new Sony S790 when it is available in May as I would like to read about what you say with the 4K conversion.
Thanks for the discussion, and keep testing.
Your comment will be the last word. This was a fun discussion.
John E. Johnson, Jr. - Thursday, 22 December 2011
Marc Audio started its business of marketing quality audio cables in its on-line store only two years ago. They did not have all of their products available at the time of launch, so we reviewed what they had, as they became available. These included the Reference Line and the Signature Line. The Reference Line is their most expensive cable, but at $870/meter-pair for the RCA interconnects, they are not all that pricey compared to many other cables out there. The Signatures are their mid-priced cables ($549/meter-pair for RCA interconnects). Now, Marc Audio has introduced the Premium Line, which is their least expensive line of cables, at $158/meter-pair. Their construction quality - and more importantly - their performance, belie their very reasonable price, and I think they are one of the best values in cables out there.

Jim Clements - Monday, 19 December 2011
Noted Austrian audiophile, Heinz Lichtenegger, founded Pro-ject Audio Systems in the 1990’s as a way of providing high quality analog playback components at reasonable prices. Since then, Pro-ject has gone on to earn a reputation for high quality, fine-sounding turntables and tonearms irrespective of price. Pro-ject has enjoyed major success over the years and celebrated their 20th anniversary in 2011.

John E. Johnson, Jr. - Thursday, 15 December 2011
If you have a home theater system where your bass management isn't as flexible as you would like it to be, an outboard crossover network could solve your problems. Bryston makes several models, and the one I chose to review was the 10B-SUB, which is designed for sending the low frequencies to the subwoofer and the mid/high frequencies to the power amplifiers that drive your left and right front channels. You can select the crossover frequency and the slope for both the low-pass and high-pass outputs. It is superbly constructed, extremely flexible, and its bench test results were first rate.
Stephen Hornbrook - Monday, 12 December 2011
I am starting to feel very comfortable with LG products of late, having recently reviewed a couple home theater Blu-ray systems, and their 3D LED LCD TV. The BD670 is the first stand alone Blu-ray player from LG that I have tested. So, for $199, how do you think it performed? Hey! Don't make assumptions based on price!

written by Kevon Manuel , December 13, 2011
Can you recommend a bluray player with Oppo's bdp-93 video performance but at a $150 - $200 price range. I don't care about 7.1 analog out or even component out.. Just HDMI out, 3D maybe, Streaming stuff a maybe but not important.
Thanks.
written by stephen , December 15, 2011
I'd probably go with the Panasonic DMP-BDT210. The LG670 will get the job done too, but Panasonic is slightly faster/better.
Brian Florian - Tuesday, 06 December 2011
The Active Atom booksehlf speaker, or A2 to be hip, is part of a new sub-brand dubbed Paradigm Shift. Back in 1997 Paradigm had a line of powered speakers derived from their then recently launched Reference brand but despite being in the opinion of many, myself included, some of the best speakers period, they didn't sell well, mainly due to a persistent (and utterly incorrect) notion held by most audiophiles that properly designed and executed powered speakers can't possibly be as good or better than ones accompanied by giant boxes.

written by Ron W , December 07, 2011
I almost bought a set of the Reference powered speakers when they were sold back in the late 90's because they sounded great. Of course, the marketing goals back then were quite different since it was, as you stated, their Reference line, considerably more expensive AND unlike these new models, geared more towards a fledgling audiophile HT market where they had both powered center and bookshelf models. These were "bi-amp nirvana". Aside from price, the issue came down to practicality of set-up since instead of running speaker wire, you now had to run RCA cable and obviously all this was better suited to a Pre-Pro which till this day, are few and far between. I am surprised, though, that considering Def-Techs success with a similar line of speakers over the years, especially in their powered center channels, Paradigm didn't bring back a similar Reference line of powered speakers now instead of just these new models for somewhat limited use.
written by Piero , December 10, 2011
Ron, I believe Paradigm used this model to break into the youth market, so many “kids” listen to music from their laptops, to have a pair of these in your dorm room is nirvana.
written by Noah , December 30, 2011
I just got a pair of the A2s in my apartment on loan from the display of my local dealer. They sound incredible, I love them. However, there is a clearly audible hiss, even when there is no input to the speaker. You note in your article
"that the review samples came from an initial run which did not meet Paradigm’s performance spec and they have since been reworked such that hiss is practically inaudible even at unusually close distances." Did you get this info directly from Paradigm? Is there some way to know which batch the speakers I have come from? Or to guarantee that if I order a new pair they will be from a new run?
Thanks!
Tyler Stripko - Friday, 02 December 2011
Founded in 1972 by Matt Polk, George Klopfer, and Sandy Gross, Polk Audio has always strived to deliver natural, full-range sound at a competitive price. While no longer run by the founders, Polk Audio still works hard to provide a high-quality sounding product at a price that mere mortals can easily afford. Recently refreshed, the RTi A series of speakers from Polk sports new curve-sided cabinets, upgraded drivers, and real-wood veneer finishes. The Polk RTiA 5.1 Home Theater Speaker System is reviewed here.

written by Claus , December 03, 2011
I went from a pair of Axiom M60v3s to these as I was not happy with the Axioms. I had a chance to level match and directly compare them before sending the Axioms back. The Polks had a much more accurate tone to them. The Axioms had a tad more bass but the bass wasn't as accurate. Polk rules!
written by Kevon Manuel , December 05, 2011
I like this review.. I was hoping that the sub reviews was the DSW Micropro series.. No one have reviewed those as of yet.
My next Polk upgrade maybe the RTI A7's as the A9's are just to big for my living space.
written by Tyler S , December 05, 2011
When someone asks me for a great full-range "bang for the buck" speaker, Polk LSi series is typically one of my recommendations. The RTiAs are almost as good, and cost a lot less, which makes them even more of a bargain in my book. Personally, I preferred the RTi A3 bookshelf speakers reviewed here to the Axiom M22 V3s I had a few months back. The Polks are just a more musical speaker (and have real bass). I'm glad you're enjoying your RTiAs.
written by Jimmy Stanz , December 05, 2011
Polk has really gotten back into the game again. For years I felt their quality went down. Now they are making speakers BETTER than many of the ID brands at the same price points. These speakers are built much better than Axiom and sound better too. I wonder how they compare against Aperion Verus. Anyone listen to the Verus line yet?
PS. I still have my Monitor 5jr+s and love em!
John E. Johnson, Jr. - Thursday, 01 December 2011
Recently, we reviewed the Pass Labs XP-20 stereo preamplifier, and it was marvelous. Hot on its heels is the new XP-30, which has the analog gain stages for each channel in a separate chassis, making a total of three chassis instead of two. The power supply is more substantial, and there are other changes as well, all resulting in lower noise and better dynamic range. I was surprised at how different the sound was from the XP-20, and the bench test spectra will show you why.

Chris Heinonen and Stephen Hornbrook - Monday, 28 November 2011
To follow up my review of the passive 3D LCD LG TV, LG sent me their 50” PZ550 3D Plasma HDTV to check out. This was a great opportunity for me to compare both the active shutter and passive approach to 3D from the same manufacturer.

written by Frank , December 20, 2011
Could you post the calibration settings you used?
written by ChrisHeinonen , December 21, 2011
I unfortunately lack a record of the calibration settings. Displays can highly vary from sample to sample, so what was accurate for us is highly unlikely to be accurate for someone else.
written by Robin , January 04, 2012
You'll find page 6 (iirc) of this thread extremely useful as it has some great calibration settings.
http://www.avforums.com/forums/lg-forum/1393621-official-lg-pz550t-plasma-3dtv-thread-8.html
written by JC1 , January 18, 2012
The reply provided by Chris on Dec. 21, 2011 is completely rubbish!
He could have provided the calibration settings so people like us can use as a starting point! If not, why mention calibration, and gloat about the great picture quality?
written by ChrisHeinonen , January 19, 2012
The problem with putting out settings used for calibration is that all the settings interact with each other, and all sets that come from the same company are different, often by large amounts. There are of course two levels of setting up a display:
- Basic control settings (Brightness, Contrast, Color, Tint, Sharpness) that anyone can set with a disc and a color filter
- Advanced settings (white balance, CMS) that can not be done without the use of a meter and software
The problem with posting settings is one of those initial settings might highly affect the later settings. Perhaps the unit we had does best with a contrast level of +15. However, if your set works best at +8, using our setting of +15 might introduce a color shift at the top end of the grayscale. Then building upon this error with all the other settings might lead to a picture that looks absolutely horrible and lead people to wonder why we thought this set performed well, or if we were just making it up as they can't get the same result with the same settings. Doing a calibration sometimes requires starting all over multiple times as you discover that one setting early on is poorly affecting a later setting, and this also can vary from set to set.
The point of the calibration is to show how well the set potentially can perform. Unfortunately there is no easy way around doing a full calibration to get the best results out of it, including using another persons settings. I've given people settings before, and they've come away thinking their set looks worse and that my settings were obviously wrong, even though that's likely just due to it being their set having different tolerances.
I know some people think differently on the issue, but since my settings can make a set worse just as likely as they can make it better, I feel publishing them seems to give them my stamp of approval for use, which is not what I want to imply. I'm sorry if you feel this is a cop-out, but this is the rationale behind my choice.
written by ChrisHeinonen , January 19, 2012
One thing I forgot to add in my earlier reply. If you are copying the settings from someone else, then you most likely are not going to be using any sort of meter to check the validity of those settings since otherwise you likely would have just calibrated it on your own. Since then you are just going off of your personal preference as to what the image should look like, and trying to use the calibrated settings as a base, you should just set the basic parameters yourself with a disc and then adjust to how you see fit for your personal style.
I again don't feel it is a cop-out at all. The goal of a calibration is to get as close to a reference point as possible. Anything that involves personal preference is not a calibration, but just setting a TV to the image you are after. The only way to get a calibrated image is with the proper equipment, software, and training and not through copying settings from another display. I would just use the settings on your own display as a starting point and then adjust them to how you prefer the image if you don't want to go to the trouble and expense of a full calibration.
written by StephenHornbrook , January 20, 2012
Also, if it were as simple as copying some settings from a calibrated set to another TV, then manufactures would (hopefully) offer a picture setting that perfectly replicates a reference calibration. Unfortunately, this does not work due to manufacturing discrepancies.
John E. Johnson, Jr. - Thursday, 24 November 2011
Ming Da is company based in China that exports tube preamplifiers, power amplifiers, and integrated amplifiers in various price ranges, including some very high end models. They sell direct, through Pacific Valve, rather than through dealers, so you really get a good bang for the buck. In this review, my first of a Pacific Valve product, is on the MD-75, which is a stereo integrated amplifier. It has a detached power supply for low noise and interference, a remote for the motorized volume control, and you can switch between triode mode (40 watts/channel output) and ultra-linear mode (75 watts/channel output). You can "tube roll" if you wish, and the review unit came with optional Black Treasure CV-181 driver tubes and Black Treasure KT88 output tubes.
One very nice feature of this product is that, when you turn it on, the volume control rotates to the lowest volume setting, so you don't accidentally start playing music at a volume that might startle you.

| Product Reviews are updated on a continual basis. We hope you come back for more! |

Reviews






