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Q&A # 131 - August 9, 1999
Staff
Q I am considering buying an AV receiver. Some models now on the market are THX certified (Pioneer Elite VSX-27TX for example) and some are not (Denon AVR-3300). When playing a source program THX "treated", does it mean that a THX certified receiver will definitely outperform a receiver (in the same price range) that is not? My problem is that I cannot find an easy place where A/B comparsion can be conducted.
A THX has come to mean a standard of performance and build quality. However, there is THX processing, which refers to decorrelation between the sound in the rear channels with Pro Logic and also some changes in the way the center channel sound is presented. Modern receivers do all of this, plus many other things, and call it some other name. So, THX certification really just means that a high standard has been met. However, this does not imply that a non-THX certified receiver isn't built to high standards. Most receivers these days are not THX because they have all the processing features they need, and certification costs money that must be passed on to the consumer. I would say that you should be more concerned with a receiver having the features and power you want, rather than whether or not it is THX certified.
Q I'm in the process of purchasing a home theater speaker system. My question is regarding subwoofers. My apartment is carpeted with the living room dimension of 15' x 29'. Should I purchase a down-firing, forward-firing, or combination type of subwoofer and should the sub be ported?
A For apartments, I would suggest a forward-firing subwoofer. Downward-firing subs tend to upset the neighbors downstairs. Ported vs. non-ported is more of a performance issue than an apartment issue. I would say just get the best sub you can afford, auditioning them with CDs that have voices (singing) so you can see if they have chestiness or boominess. If you buy a really good one now, you won't ever have to upgrade. Subwoofers are generic. They work with any sound system, stereo, Pro Logic, DD, DTS, radio, etc. Purchasing something that plays loud and deep will mean that you just have to wait until you get a house before cranking it up to full capacity.
Q Over the years I have upgraded my home theater system, and now find I'm listening to music more than home theater. I have an entry level Sony CD player (CDP-CE415) and would like to upgrade. At present, I have no DVD player. With universal DVDs on the horizon, I am uncertain on how to proceed. One option would be to purchase the Sony 7700 series DVD which has two lasers and use it as a transport for my TA-E9000ES preamp as well as a DVD player. From what I've read, I would have to use the analog outputs to get true 24/96 performance, but this appears inefficient since it would involve D/A to A/D to D/A conversions. From the digital output the signal would be downsampled to 48 kHz. Would this unit be a viable compromise, or should I consider a unit such as the Toshiba 3109 that has HDCD and use the extra money to purchase a dedicated transport? I would like to resolve this and focus on new interests such as Mapleshade, Chesky, etc.
A Later this year (1999), music on the DVD format is supposed to hit the store shelves. This will be in the form of DVD Audio and SACD. DVD Audio will have multiple 48 kHz 20 bit channels like DD and DTS, but the samples will be not be compressed like DD and DTS. If only two channels are used - as if it were a regular stereo CD - they will have 192 kHz 24 bit sampling. The sampling frequency and word length (number of bits in each sample) goes down as the number of channels goes up. Sony's SACD is capable of more than two channels, but it will just be two channel to start. While the DVD Audio format uses PCM, SACD does not. Today's DVD players and CD players will not be compatible with these new discs. Therefore, although the Sony 7700 is a great player, it will only handle DVDs and regular CDs. DVD players towards the end of the year are supposed to be able to play some of the new discs. We are at the transition point right now, so I would suggest waiting a couple of months to see what happens. If the new DVD players come out with DVD Audio capability, last year's DVD models will go on sale, including I would imagine, the 7700, which is apparently the one you are interested in. SACD is supposed to be available only on Sony's players initially, and the first one will be about $5,000. DVD Audio players, on the other hand, will be about $1,000, which is the same price as top of the line current DVD players.
Q Is there any VGA to RGB converter available? Would I get in that case better quality than my S-Video connection? I have a Sony CD 20 ES player and a Sony SDP 90 ES DD processor. If I purchase an external processor like the X-Dac, would I have better sound quality? I use a Densen B-300 and Magnepan speakers. I have also noticed a little hiss in the 90 ES. For the time being, I have no preamplifier since the 90 ES has a volume control. if I get a preamp like the Electrocompaniet ECI-4.5, would I have better or worse sound?
A From your DVD player, component (or RGB in the case of Faroudja and Samsung) is better than S-Video. The improvements will be most noticeable on large screen TVs. You will find cleaner more saturated colors. It is possible to get better sound with a product like the X-Dac. This is something you really must try yourself. The Sony ES is Sony's best product line.
Q I purchased a Denon AVR-1500 in 1996 just prior to DVD, AC-3, and THX. It is equipped with Dolby Pro Logic and has outputs for front, center, rear, and subwoofer. I have Klipsch speakers for each output. I would like to add a DVD player to my home theater system. Should I buy a DVD player that is equipped with its own AC-3 decoder? If not, would it be advisable to buy a separate component processor? Do you have any recommendations on specific DVD players?
A Getting a DVD player that has the 5.1 analog outputs on it is only useful if your non-DD receiver has a set of 5.1 analog inputs. Now that DD/DTS receivers are plentiful and inexpensive, it is no longer cost effective to have decoders installed in old receivers by outside sources. If a consumer has an old, but expensive, receiver with 5.1 inputs, it is reasonable to buy an outboard decoder (if you can find one). In your case, I would suggest getting a new receiver that has DD and DTS built in, along with pre-ins and pre-outs, and using your old receiver to drive the rear channel pre-outs from the new receiver. This will take the load off the power supply in the new receiver. Having a set of pre-in jacks will come in handy with DVD audio, where the outputs from the player are likely to be a set of 5.1 analog jacks.
Q I would like to know if a home DVD player can play other formats such as mpeg, avi, or QuickTime videos.
A The DVD players in computers are currently the only ones designed to output data from the video files you mentioned. Players meant for home theater don't recognize these files, although they probably will eventually when computers and TVs become more integrated.
Q I have a Pioneer VSX-D508 receiver, a Hi-Fi VCR, a stereo TV, and a Sony DVP-330 DVD player. How should I connect this to play Dolby Digital?
A For those receivers that do not have DD processing, use the two-channel analog stereo outputs from the DVD player. However, even when a receiver has DD processing, I like to connect both the digital output of the DVD player and the stereo analog outputs. When playing regular CDs, this will let you find out whether the DVD player or the receiver has the best two-channel DAC. Your VCR outputs only two-channel stereo, not DD.
Q I am planning an upgrade to Dolby Digital and use a 3-way electronic crossover for the three front channels. If I use a DD receiver, could I utlilize the Left/Center/Right amps to power the front midranges? How can I use one volume control for everything?
A This should work as long as you have the right combination of pre-outs and pre-ins. Usually, the main-ins will be the ones that work with all the modes, since they come with jumpers that can be removed to separate the preamp outputs from the power amplifier inputs. The other pre-ins often only work in one mode. So, you could probably be successful with the front left and right, but, possibly not with the center. To do it, take the pre-outs and connect them to your crossover. Take the midrange outputs from the crossover and feed them into the main-ins. The speaker outputs from the front left/right would then go to the midrange drivers for the front left/right speakers. The highs and lows from the crossovers would feed power amplifiers that drive the tweeters and woofers in the front left/right speakers. This would allow you to use just the main volume control.
� Copyright 1999 Secrets of Home Theater & High Fidelity
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