Q&A # 70 - June 30, 1998

Staff

Q I have a Pioneer AV Receiver VSX-456, which I use to run my B&W 803s. Last week my house was burgled and amongst the things lost is the remote Commander for the AV Receiver. I live in India, and it may be difficult to source the replacement here. However, next month I am in Europe for a fortnight. Will you please tell me where I can find a replacement for the lost remote? Else please suggest a good Universal Programmable Remote Commander, which I can buy in Europe and if possible the price range.

A Just about any of the programmable learning remotes would work, and what I would suggest is getting one that suits you while you are in Europe, and then go to the hi-fi store either in Europe or back home and ask to use one of their Pioneer receiver remotes for a few moments. Using the Pioneer remote and the learning remote you bought, learn the Pioneer receiver functions onto the learning remote. You should not have to pay more than about $50 - $75 for a programmable learning remote control.

Q How important is it to physically match tweeters for a DD setup? I currently own a pair of NHT 1.5s for the front L/R, an NHT AudioCenter 1 and an NHT SW1P subwoofer. I plan to get my surrounds sometime next week and my initial plan was to buy the NHT SuperOnes. I talked to the dealer and he told me that I'm better off using another pair of 1.5s for the surround channels since the tweeters are the same (aluminum dome tweeter) vs. the SuperOne's Soft dome tweeter. Does it make that BIG a difference?

A Having another pair of 1.5s for DD use is a good idea, but not so much because of the soft dome vs. metal dome tweeters. With the 1.5s, the woofer is on top and the tweeter is on the bottom. With the SuperOnes, the woofer is on the bottom and the tweeter is on the top. They will sound different because they have different enclosures too. Regardless of the reasons he gave you though, get another pair of 1.5s.

Q I'm planning to purchase a DVD player soon. Can you please explain what "regional codes" or "country codes are? There are many shops now selling the so called "regional codes free" DVD players. How do they overcome this code restrictions and is this bad for the player? (Pioneer DV-505 is able to switch the codes via its remote control while other players don't offer this fuction.) Is it true that the second generation of DVD players are not able to be modified?

A Regional or country codes are encoded into DVD movies depending on what country they are supposed to be available in. The DVD players sold in various countries have their regional code set by the factory, so that you can only play the discs with those specific regional codes. The reason for this is that movies are not released at theaters in various countries all at the same time. Otherwise, you could get a DVD movie from, say, the United States before the movie actually shows at theaters in some particular country overseas, and end up watching it at home on DVD in that overseas country before it has had its run at the theater in that country. This would reduce ticket sales at the theater. Some early DVD players could play multiple code DVDs. The latest ones cannot, at least not easily, be modified to play multiple code DVDs.

Q I have found that many DVDs that say DD audio can mean many things, and are not always AC-3. Will that be the same situation when the DTS DVDs come out, or is that always AC-3?

A DD and DTS are multiple channel formats, but not all the channels have to be used. DD or AC-3, and DTS, are encoding algorithms for compressing audio data so that the digital information will fit on our available media, whether it is CDs or DVDs. DD uses 384 kilobits per second for all 5.1 channels because that is what fits between the sprocket holes in 24 frames of movie film being projected at the movie theater (at 24 frames per second). Shown below is a piece of movie film with the two channel stereo analog tracks (vertical light streaks) just to the left of the blue film image. The stereo analog tracks are used for decoding into Pro Logic. To the left of the analog tracks, you can see the film sprocket holes, and in between the sprocket holes are small dark specks (also look at the sprocket holes on the right, where there are no specks). Those specks are the Dolby Digital bits that are read optically as the film passes through the projector (image copyright Dolby Laboratories). Not all the channels necessarily have sound in them at any one time, and when any channel is silent, no bits are being used in that channel. With CDs, both channels are using their bits, whether there is any sound in the channels or not. With older movies that are mono or just stereo, the center channel of the DD or DTS may be the only one containing any signal, and in that case, all the bits can be allocated to it, or to them (2 channels - front left/right for stereo). However, it is still called DD or DTS because of the algorithms used to encode it. A conventional two channel PCM track for Pro Logic decoding is there too, but it is not part of the DD or DTS data. DD DVD movies have DD and two channel PCM, along with the video. DTS DVDs will have DTS and two channel PCM, along with the video. If you have a Pro Logic and DD decoder, you can play DD DVD movies with DD or Pro Logic. When the DTS DVDs become available, you would have to use the two channel PCM track and decode it for Pro Logic if you don't have a DTS decoder. DD and DTS will not reside on the same DVD movie discs because they won't fit, and also, DD uses PCM while DTS will use some other format.

Q Which receiver is a better choice, the Lexicon DSP or Theta?

A These two components are not receivers, because they don't have tuners or power amplifiers built-in. They would be called Processors, and these generally can be used as preamplifers and source switchers. Decoders are not preamplifiers or switchers, but serve only to decode particular formats such as DD and DTS. Decoders plug into processors or receivers. If the component has everything but the tuner, it is a processor/amplifier.

Q My A/V interests basically are with DVD and music CDs. My system (when completed next month) will consist of Boston Acoustic speakers (CR 8s for mains, CR 2 for center, the basic BA surround speakers, and a Klipsch 8" subwoofer. I will also have a Yamaha 992 receiver, a Sony S-500D DVD player, a Kenwood DP-R3070 CD player, a Mitsubitshi HS-U510 VCR player, and a 27" Magnavox television. Unfortunately, my television has composite only and no S-video or component. I am looking for a 32" to 36" television with component, but I have had no success in locating one at any A/V center I've visited.

A Sony has some new models with their new FD-Trinitron Wega tube that have component video inputs. I would give these a spin. If you are serious about DVD, you should look for a 16x9 display because the improvement with an anamorphic picture is better than switching to component. Most 16x9 TVs coming out now also offer component video so you should be ok.

Q I am considering purchasing an LCD front projector. I have been reading articles that Sony and Sharp have a few good models. I am also reading that with line doublers LCD projectors have come a long way. How would you classify the Sony and Sharp LCD projectors in terms of video grade? Can you recommend a good (or one you consider the best) front LCD projector? I was also considering a CRT - I hear Runco makes the best and they have a model for about $15,000. However I keep reading that these projectors need professional setup (a point I do enjoy) and are quite heavy, which means moving the projector around is not so easy. I would appreciate your comments especially on the LCD front projectors.

A I would not buy an LCD because the picture quality can never equal a good CRT projector (in my opinion). They have gotten much better, but still have a long ways to go. They will eventually be replaced by DLP and Plasma. Front projectors rule! Runco makes some of the best, but they do have a complicated procedure for setup. DWIN makes a nice unit that is only 70 pounds and can be purchased for around $10,000. It has no fan (so no noise) and has a fantastic picture.

Q Someone told me that using an optical cable to hook up a CD player to a digital receiver would be better if th D/A converter on the receiver is better than that of the CD player. My question is how do you compare the two?

A Your information is correct, but it will be true for coax digital as well as optical digital transmission of the digital data from the transport to the receiver. You compare them by connecting your optical digital cable from the player's optical digital output jack to the receiver and also connecting the two channel analog out jacks from the player to the receiver. I would suggest using two different input choices on the receiver, such as CD and VCR. In other words, connect the optical cable to the CD optical input, and the analog cables to the VCR input or some other input. Then, when playing a CD, you switch back and forth from the CD input to the VCR input. The CD input sound will tell you how good the DAC in the receiver is, while the sound from the VCR input will tell you how good the DAC in the player is. If you used the same input selection for both optical and analog, the receiver will probably give one of them priority since the information is coming in from two sources (digital and analog) at the same time. You would have to manully reselect analog vs. digital and it would take more time, reducing your ability to compare the two sources.

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