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Q&A - #2 -
March 7, 1997
Q Can
someone speculate on the possibility of the Star Wars Trilogy
Special Edition and Terminator 2 being released on DVD? I know
that the [Star Wars] Trilogy has been remastered in THX on LD,
but is the Special Edition Trilogy going to be remastered on DVD?
These are some of my personal favorites. I would like to know if
there is a list avaible of DVD titles that are going to be
released in 97'?
A I would certainly imagine that Star Wars will be
released on DVD. Probably the new revised versions that have been
at the theater recently will be a major priority. For a list of
DVD titles in 1997, see our "Flash" section (click icon
on the home page).
Q I
recently purchased a Sunfire True Subwoofer--two words for you,
IT HAMMERS! This little box, and I mean little, shakes the floor
and walls with ease...unbeleivable. I'm interested to hear any
and all comments from those who own a Sunfire. Moreover, how do
you think the Sunfire compares to a Velodyne?
A The Sunfire Sub is amazing isn't it? For its
size, there is no comparison, but in terms of sheer volume (SPL),
it is similar to a Velodyne F-1500 where it will match output at
one or two low frequencies.
Q I
am in the market for an A/V receiver and am considering AC-3
capabilities. I just read John Johnson's review of the Yamaha
home theater setup in your October 96 issue, and was fairly
interested, but am slightly intimidated by the wiring
complexities. As a regular guy who just wants to have a good home
theater, should I wait until components become more integrated
and/or simpler to hook up, or take a chance and go with complex
wiring that you need a Ph.D. in Electrical Engineering to
understand?
A I know the feeling. My Ph.D. doesn't do me any
good anyway, because it is in the biological sciences. The wiring
diagram I showed with the Yamaha RX-V990 receiver was in case you
want to use outboard power amplifiers. If you don't want to do
this, all that is necessary is the hookup of a laserdisc player,
VCR, and speakers. Receivers are probably going to become more
complex, because the source material types are increasing (AC-3,
DTS, DVD, HDTV). Eventually, there will be receivers that have
inputs for everything, but for now, I would suggest that, for
simplicity, a receiver that has at least one set of 5.1 inputs
for outboard processors should keep you forward compatible. We
like the Yamaha 990 for this reason. We are currently testing
some other equipment that has DB-25 connections (like on the back
of your computer). They greatly simplfy things. Reviews coming
shortly
Q I
was wondering if you know where I can find information on adding
a coaxial digital ouput (Do-It-Yourself)? I purchased a Pioneer
CLD-D505 before I realized that DTS needs a digital output. I can
find a buyer for my 505 but I will definately lose money. Any
help would be greatly appreciated. If I do decide to sell my 505
I may go with one of the new Pioneer DVD/LD but I have a question
on the DVL700. Do you know if the digital ouputs can be used with
LD? The information on the Pioneer site makes it sound like they
are only for DVD (no e-mail on Pioneer's web site). I was also
wondering if you know of a web site for B&K products? I am
considering their products for my new system.
A We know of several AC-3 RF output modifications,
but not about a DIY digital output procedure. Perhaps one of our
readers can input here. I am sure that the digital output on the
combination LD/DVD players will transmit the digital bitstream
regardless of whether you are playing a laserdisc or DVD. You can
find B&K's website and many other manufacturers too, by
clicking on our links section, then clicking the "Hifi on
WWW" link near the bottom of the page.
Q I
own an Onkyo 515 receiver to which I am thinking of adding a
subwoofer. The receiver does not have a line out for the sub, so
I'm confused about the best way to connect the sub. I read a news
posting that referenced a subwoofer controller (a Paradigm X-30)
as something that may be needed. I am looking for the best
connection as far as sound is concerned. Also, any recomendations
for a sub in the under $700 category?
A For receivers that do not have subwoofer outputs
or line outputs, but a tape loop, you can use two "Y"
connectors to feed the output back to the input, and use the
third of the three legs of the Y connectors to feed the line
level inputs of the subwoofer. Otherwise, you need to use the
speaker connectors to feed the speaker level inputs on the
subwoofer. Two pairs of speaker cables are required whether you
are using the crossover in the sub or not. As far as <$700
subs, our readers are invited to submit their favorites.
Q I
just bought a receiver that is rated at 90 watts into 8 ohms, but
my old speakers are 4 ohms. Is there a way to change the speakers
into 8 ohms? Or I will have to buy new speakers?
A When you use an amplifier with a 4 Ohm load,
twice as much current, and half the voltage, is required to
deliver the same amount of watts as into 8 Ohms, as per Ohm's Law
(Voltage=Current x Resistance). Most amplifiers can handle a 4
Ohm speaker, but you have to be careful not to turn the volume up
too loud. Otherwise the amp can overheat because it is attempting
to deliver more current than it is designed for. You should have
no problem with your 4 Ohm speakers if you are cautious.
Q I
am slowly trying to build myself a home theatre system. My
current system is pretty low-end stuff that I plan to replace as
I can afford. I am currently shopping to replace my television. I
have a large room and would like to purchase a screen of 50"
or better. As you may have guessed already I am a bit of a novice
and have become somewhat confused by some of the information I
have received via the WWW and various sales staff at local
stores. I need an unbiased opinion. Can you recommend a good
quality "entry-level" rear projection television? What
are some of the things I should be looking for, or beware of?
A Even entry level projection TVs are not cheap.
My recommendation is to wait just a bit until TVs are available
with component video inputs. Our observations are that using DVD
with component inputs on the TV makes such a big difference in
the picture quality, that any home theater enthusiast who wants
the best image possible should get a DVD player with component
video outputs and a TV with component video inputs. For someone
who just wants a big screen TV to watch football and doesn't care
about home theater, I could recommend some TVs, but from your
statement, I think you would be happier waiting until you can
afford a better quality set of electronics.
Q I
have recently purchased a Pioneer LCD-790 LD player (AC-3).
During play, I can feel a considerable amount of vibration as I
place my hand on the player's top cover. Which is the most
effective way to minimize this vibration? It seems to me that
coupling devices, i.e., spikes and cones, are the logical choice
for this sort of vibration generated internally. These devices
should not only provide rigid coupling, but they would also
transfer the internal-born vibration out of the player itself.
Isolation devices, i.e. sobothane feet and air cushions, are
better for isolating equipment from external-born vibration. I
think that the use of both mass loading (VPI bricks or Bright
Star plates) with rigid coupling (spikes and cones) are most
suitable for internal-born vibration. Do you have any
views/comments?
A Spiked feet isolate the component from the shelf
on which they are sitting (it is called "coupling" but
what is meant is actually minimizing the surface area that is in
contact between the two items, i.e., shelf and LD player). This
means that the vibrating shelf will not transfer vibrations to
the component, and the vibrating component will not transfer its
vibrations to the shelf. Assuming that you can feel the shelf
vibrating as well as the laserdisc player, I would use spikes or
sorbothane feet underneath it, and something on top as well, such
as the bricks. Then, the vibrating shelf will not shake the
player, and the bricks will help to absorb the vibrations that
are induced directly from the air.
Q I
have a Kenwood 7080 receiver, JBL9000 front speakers, JBL Flix 2
center and surrounds, and JBL PSW1000 subwoofer, Samsung hi fi
stereo VCR, RCA 26inch TV. My question is simple - the TV is set
with the speakers off but if I turn the volume up on the TV, the
sound goes up on the system. Where should the volume be set on
the TV - high, low, or does it matter at all?
A Some TVs have a two sets of audio outputs, one
that varies with the TV volume control and one set that is the
same level all the time. Check to see if your TV has these.
Otherwise, set the volume control about a third of the way up,
and turn up the volume on your receiver. If it sounds distorted,
then turn the TV volume down a bit and try again. If you set the
TV volume too low, you will get a lot of hum, hiss, and other
noise in your receiver.
Q Using
a Radio Shack digital SPL meter, I have adjusted the levels of my
Snell M&C 500 system L/C/R and surrounds at 75db (slow
response, C-weighting) with my integrated A/V amp's, Denon AVC-A1
AC-3/THX, internal test tones. For the Snell 550 subs (both
passive, driven by a dedicated stereo power amp), I kept getting
the reading "LOW" on the SPL meter's display. What is
the best way to adjust the subs? Shall I use the a/v amp's test
tone for the subs and raise the level until it reads 75 on the
SPL meter? The current settings are as follows: L/R/Surrounds are
at -3dB, C at -2dB and subs @ -2dB. I've set the subs' at -2db
for 2 reasons: 1) they are placed at the same distance as the C;
2) I'm afraid of damaging the subs & amps if the levels are
set too high.
A You will not get an exact reading of 75dB with your
SPL meter on a sub. This is because of the way low energy works.
(Standing Waves and Room Modes). What you will get is a bouncing
effect; your meter will bounce back and forth above and below 75
dB when set correctly. So don't kill yourself trying to get it to
stay on 75dB. The volume at which you set the speakers will not
compensate for the relative position from you in the listening
room. To time align the speakers, you need to either (1) Put the
speakers equidistant from you, or (2) Your processor must be able
to delay each channel individually. Since you have the Denon, I
believe that THX/AC-3 has a time alignment requirement for
certification.
Stacey Spears
Q I'm
considering the purchase of a high-end A/V receiver which has
several video switching inputs and outputs. I was wondering if
these video switches introduce any noticeable picture quality
losses due to noise, interference, etc. I will be using the
S-video i/o as much as possible.
A Every connection in the signal path adds noise
of one sort or another. The question, as you say, is whether or
not it is noticeable. I would say that, if you keep the cables
short, probably not. You should remember that S-Video cables only
give you a better picture if the comb filter is better in your
player than it is in the TV. Try it both ways (regular coax cable
and S-Video). You might be surprised. We certainly were.
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Secrets of Home Theater & High Fidelity
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