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Q&A # 342 - April 11, 2003
 

Staff

 

Q What is the ideal ratio of the screen size to the distance between the audience and the screen? In other words, if my couch is 10 feet from the screen, what is the ideal diagonal of the screen?

A The ratio I see most often quoted is the seating distance should be about 1.5 x the width of the screen. For your situation, that means a screen of about 6 to 7 feet wide. Note that refers to the projection part of the screen, not the projection part plus the black border.

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Q Do most remotes work through glass doors? Does it matter if the glass is clear or smokey?

A Yes, remotes work through glass doors, but there will be a bit of sensitivity decrease, especially if they are smokey glass. If you have a problem, you can get an IR repeater setup that lets you put the sensor outside the cabinet, and then you connect as many IR repeaters as you need, up to 6, to the sensor. The repeaters have long wires that let you stick the repeater on the front of each component's IR receiver area. Then, no matter where the component is, behind glass, inside a closed wooden cabinet, around a corner, or whatever, as long as you can see the sensor with the remote, it will work. I guess we should write a little article on how to do this. It makes having several components whose IR receivers are at odd angles to the sitting position a lot easier to work with remote controls.

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Q I just read your equipment selection choice on the C5 Corvette.  Very nice. The equipment in my Mercedes E430 is about 90% the same. Instead of the Dynaudio speakers, I'm using Focal Speakers. However, I wanted to ask you when were the Alpine 900 and the PXA-H700 out? I have been desperately looking for these two units. I have the C800, but I want to upgrade to the C900, and I have been waiting for a DD/DTS car processor with this type of specification for a while, the PXA-H900 F1 is just way out of performance/dollar.

A We often get equipment in advance of it being available to the public, but you should contact the respective companies' customer service lines to ask about specific availability, especially since our readers are in about 80 countries around the world, and products are released at different times in different countries.

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Q  I have a Denon 5700 receiver (140 w.p.c. X five) and would like to know if it would run the Dynaudio Contour 1.8MKII speakers with it. I like the Dynaudios, but am unsure about the amp.

A Those particular speakers have a nominal impedance specification of 4 Ohms, but the minimum is 3.8 Ohms, while the max is 9.4 Ohms. I suspect you will be OK with the Denon, but don't crank it up too loud. Probably somewhere around 10 o'clock on the volume control will be about the limit.

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Q  I have tried to find both the Panasonic RP82 and XP30 that ranked among the top choices in the "Shoot Out". However, both appear to be discontinued at the various retailers I check, both brick-and-mortars stores and on line.

How can this be if both were so well reviewed?

I thought the XP-30 was new?

A When Secrets gives a product a Secrets Recommended rating, they disappear from stores really fast. Models change so quickly these days, that any one model number is not around very long regardless of reviews.

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Q We are setting up a home theater in a room with a high vaulted ceiling. This ceiling has a lot of reverberation. How can I solve this problem?

A It should be easy to do using sound absorption panels that attach to walls and ceiling. The hard part may be convincing your spouse to let you put those panels on the ceiling. You may be able to get away by just using the panels on that part of the ceiling that is a reflection line between the speakers and your sitting position. Go to some of the websites that offer wall treatment panels. They usually have ideas on how to solve specific room problems.

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Q I recently purchased an Hitachi 57SWX20B and have experienced a problem on totally black screens while viewing DVD movies. It appears as if the previous image, such as film maker's logo, is burned into the screen in blue when it disappears and the screen goes pure black. A technician came out to see the problem, recognized it, and did a gray
calibration but this did not help. He suggested that I get a different DVD player so I did, Panasonic XP-30 and Monster Cables for component input, but the problem persists. There are also blue spots on transition scenes when the background is black. Is this TV just a lemon? The only way I have found to rid of this problem is to adjust the brightness down to a very low level.

A That Hitachi model uses CRTs for projection, and I suspect your problem is related to blue phosphor persistence, which means the blue CRT stays illuminated in areas too long. That could be due to too much voltage on that CRT, but lowering it will throw off the color balance. Contact the store where you bought it and explain the problem to them. It should be covered under warranty. If it can't be fixed to your satisfaction, check out another unit (same model number) in the store to see if it has that problem. If it does not, then request a replacement. If it does have the same problem, exchange it for a different model or brand that does not have the problem. That is what warranties are for.

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Q I purchased a Samsung HDTV STB as-is. It will turn on by the remote but has no video output. I've checked the P/S and everything, but it seems like the problem is with the microprocessor on the main board (bad memory or something). I tried a BIOS update and that seemed to work but still no output. It is just barely out of warranty. I've called the Samsung service department, and they say repair costs $500! Seriously, because they have to replace the main board they want more for repair than a new one costs! The unit seems to be made to be non-repairable. All the chips are surface mount, soldered in, and nothing can be easily replaced or unplugged for testing.
1. Isn't there any place that will repair these at a reasonable price?
2. Isn't it illegal to make something that can't be serviced?

A It is a sad fact that so many mass market consumer products are cheaper to build than to repair now. It is because robots build them, but people have to repair them by hand, and labor is very expensive. When a product for sale is labeled "As Is", this nearly always means it has some serious problems that you cannot ignore. If it only has a few scratches or other blemishes, or simply was returned but still works fine, they just sell it as "B Stock" without any "As Is" kind of limitations. They might label it as "Open Box" products, on sale.  Someone who buys an "As Is" item needs to be prepared to have it repaired or repair it themselves. A teenager who buys an old car "As Is" is someone who knows how to, and is actually looking forward to, fixing the car. You may have to just chalk this one up to experience. I suspect you did not pay much for it ($150) since new ones are not very expensive anyway.

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