Q My TV is a standard non HDTV capable of supporting 480i signals. I'm just getting into HT so forgive the amateur question, but would a progressive scan source (DVD or PC) give any improvement over a non-progressive source, say a standard DVD player? Also, as far as TV out from a PC goes, is there any sense trying to do this on a non-HDTV?

A For progressive scan use, the source does not have to be progressive scan, but the display does. In this case, the display would deinterlace the source, thus converting it to a progressive scan image. As to your PC and TV, you can install a TV tuner in your PC, including even an HDTV tuner ($300) and watch progressive scan TV there, using your PC monitor, which will display progressive scan.

T

Q  I am currently using a Sony STR-DA777ES receiver as preamp for an ATI 1505 5-channel outboard amp. I am interested in upgrading to the newest surround formats (6.1, DPL II, etc.) and am wondering what if there are any disadvantages in simply buying a newer receiver that has pre-outs, vs. buying a dedicated pre/pro. The Sony has so many features that I enjoy, such as five-channel EQ, and very complete bass management, that near as I can tell, the only way to get those features is to buy another Sony receiver, or shell out $3,000 or more for a real high-end pre/pro like the Anthem.

A There really is not much source material in 6.1 (a few DVDs have EX, but that is about all). DPL-II is only of use with stereo material, such as CDs. Although it is a nice feature, to me, it is not worth an entire receiver or processor upgrade. If you are itching to spend money, then use your dollars to get a universal DVD player, which will handle DVD-A and SACD, and plug it into the 5.1 analog pre-ins of your existing Sony receiver. If your receiver does not have pre-ins, well then, you do indeed now have a worthwhile reason to get a new receiver or processor.

T

Q I'm in the market for a new DVD player as my trusty Pioneer DV-500 is showing its age. It looks like Panasonic's RP82 and XP50 might be the players to purchase. I did notice though that the XP30 and XP50 only have optical audio outputs, while the RP82 has coaxial. Both the RP82 and XP50 have DVD-A, which might be nice for future audio DVDs, while the XP30 does not include DVD-A.

I've read some articles in the past that have stated the coaxial digital has a more natural sound while the optical is more artificial. I did some back to back comparisons myself on my Yahama RXV793 and found that the optical did seem to add more elements to music, but I'm not sure they were elements that were part of the original recording.

My question is based on your high ratings of Panasonic's new DVD players, should I get the RP82 with coaxial or XP50 with optical digital output?

A The RP82 is discontinued, but the XP50 is a close replacement. I use Toslink optical, and prefer it over coaxial, because there are no impedance issues with an optical cable, and also, this gives one less potential ground loop problem. Get DVD-A, and just use Toslink optical for DD, DTS, and 16/44 CDs. You will enjoy high resolution surround audio, but you will have to feed it to the receiver via 5.1 analog audio connections. The main problem you will find though, is that since our Benchmark on these players was published, sources for the RP82, XP30, and XP50 have disappeared. I could not even locate a store to get the models for myself! Next time we find a great player, I am going to buy one before we publish the review.

T

Q I've read your answers to DVI questions, but I am confused about how various DVI sources will be selected. For instance, if I have a set top box and a DVD both with DVI outputs, how will I switch between sources? I am looking for RPTVs with DVI input, but do they have multiple jacks? Can I use a receiver such as the Elite VSX-49TXi to switch video sources?

A Switching digital sources is more complex than switching analog sources, but I anticipate that TVs will eventually come with several DVI (Digital Visual Interface) input jacks. Receivers will probably have multiple DVI input jacks too, being switched to serve one DVI output jack. Since TVs with DVI inputs are just starting to arrive, and receivers with DVI are not here yet, with only a couple of DVD players with DVI having hit the shelves, it is impossible to know exactly what is going to happen. However, I think that outboard DVI switch boxes will become available to solve this problem, and will have DVI-HDMI conversion built-in, since DVI and HDMI (High Definition Multi-media Interface) are pin-for-pin compatible.

T

Q I have a Hitachi HDTV monitor that I purchased 2 years ago.  It does not have a DVI input, but does have S-Video and component video inputs. Will I be able to view HDTV broadcasts if I get a set top box?

A For HDTV programming that has HDCP (High Bandwidth Digital Content Protection) in the signal, no, the STB will likely send only an analog signal through the other jacks. It could be high-resolution, but if a certain flag is there, it might end up just being 480i or 480p to the TV. For those programs that are not HDCP enabled, you should be able to get the HDTV signal out of the STB into your TV and view them fine. I am sure this infuriates you, as it does all of us early adopters.

T

Q I saw you on "The Screen Savers", and wish you had more time. Question: I would like to utilize the DVI input (#5 on my PDP-433CMX), with my Comcast Motorola DCT 5100 HDTV cable box. The box has outputs: USB and IEEE 1394, as well as Y-Pb-Pr which I'm using now. Are either of these outputs able to patch to the DVI for inputting ? The Pioneer has only one set of component inputs, but additionally to the DVI, has a 15 pin d-sub RGB. I believe I can get a patch or "break-out" cable to connect from the 15 pin to component (RCA or BNC). Which method should I use for the box, and which for my progressive DVD player?

A On The Screen Savers, Leo devoted almost half the hour-long show to our discussion, and yet, I still only got through about half of what I had intended to talk about. Fortunately, it is all contained in the shopping for a new TV write-up.

First, you need to know that DVI comes in several "flavors".  There is a DVI-I version, which carries analog signals and digital signals. DVI-D carries only digital signals. DVI-A carries only analog signals. The DVI input on your display is likely the DVI-D version, although I certainly don't know for sure. Your 15 pin VGA jack is analog, as is the Y-Pb-Pr. Whether or not connecting the VGA or Y-Pb-Pr jacks to the DVI input on your display would produce a picture is questionable, even though you might find a breakout cable that would fit. Take a look at http://www.pacificcable.com, as they have a very nice diagram of all the DVI variations. I bought one for connecting the DVI output on my PC video card to a DLP projector that has DVI input. It produced a beautiful picture.

T

Q  I have a Toshiba 46WH086 RPT. First, can it display progressive scan from a DVD player with a line doubler, and secondly, if it can't, what can I do to make it do so?

A Your instruction manual will tell you if it can display progressive scan. This is such a nice feature, they would be nuts not to include it in the manual. Likely, on the rear panel, there will be a set of component video input jacks to connect to a progressive scan DVD player. But, if your TV cannot display progressive scan signals, there is nothing you can do to remedy this except buy a new TV.

T

Q I have a Sony DVPNS300 DVD player that is having problems. When playing CDs, static/crackling occurs. Playing DVDs, the player will "hang" (get stuck), occasionally show the "disc dirty" error, and/or will go back to the very beginning of the disc. I have tried using the Radio Shack cleaning disk with no luck. It hangs also!

Since my TV is old (cable/antenna coax connect only) the DVD is connected through the VCR.

The usage has been very light. Is this worth fixing or are these basically disposable? If I have to replace it, is any brand more reliable than any other? All the reviews focus on features but never seem to look at reliability.

A I suspect this is a misalignment of the laser in your player, which a disc cleaner would not fix. It is something that can happen with any player. Reliability is not something we can test, as it requires having the player around for 6 months or so. There are some websites out there that let readers write their own reviews, and an accumulation of bad marks on any single product would let a consumer know this is a product not to buy. If repairs cost more than about 1/3 of what you paid for the player, then toss it and get a new one. There are some very nice players out there for $200 or less.

About Secrets Register

Terms and Conditions of Use