Q For a new TV, why should I go with 16:9 instead of 4:3? I could get a really great deal on a 40" Sony XBR 4:3 TV, or should I save a little more to get a nice big 16:9?

A It depends on whether or not you watch a lot of DVD movies. If you do, 16:9 is the way to go because most DVDs are engineered for 16:9 and you get the best picture that way. On a 4:3 TV, the DVD player has to down-convert the movie to fit inside the 4:3 picture tube, and you lose a lot of the image quality. If you don't watch DVD movies, then 4:3 is fine, because it looks like it will be a while before the majority of TV programs are 16:9.

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Q You posted a question about the Mitsubishi VS-4503R and a reset key for the passcode. In response, all Mitsubishi TVs have resets, and below is an excerpt from a Mitsubishi TV manual.

If you forget the code, you can view the locked TV without entering the code. To do this, simply press the buttons on your remote labeled “QV” and “9” at the same time whenever your secret code is requested. Unlocking the TV this way is temporary. To change or permanently cancel the lock:
1. Turn on your TV. If the TV requests your secret code, press (on) and (9) at the same time.
2. Press (menu) to view the main menu.
3. Use the (up) or (down) to select “V-Chip Parent Lock” and press (enter).
4. The on-screen display will ask for your current passcode. Press (on) and (9) at the same time.
5. The on-screen display will now ask you to enter a new code:
• To cancel the passcode permanently, press (menu) or (home).
• To change to a new passcode, use the number buttons to enter a new code, then press (enter).

I M P O R T A N T I M P O R T A N T
You must use the remote control included with this TV. You cannot use a remote control from another Mitsubishi component and you cannot use “Universal” remotes from other manufacturers.

A Thanks for the info.

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Q I have a progressive scan DVD PCI card (Sigma Designs X-Card) with component and S-Video output. Is a TV with 525 lines of resolution and an S-Video and/or component inputs sufficient to display DVD quality resolution, or must the TV contain special hardware to take advantage of progressive DVD technology as well as the DVD player?

A For progressive scan signals to be displayed, your TV must have progressive scan capabilities, meaning that it can scan at least twice the normal NTSC scan rate. NTSC is 15.75 kHz. For progressive scan, it must be able to scan at least at 31.5 kHz. Most new TVs have S-Video, and some have component video, but they don't necessarily have progressive scan. The 525 line spec is for NTSC, and even with progressive scan, it is still 525 lines. It is just that they are all displayed at the same time in progressive scan mode, whereas in interlaced mode, only half are displayed on the screen at any one instant, either the odd numbered ones or the even numbered ones. We are in a transition period now, and you have to be very careful when shopping for a new TV to make sure you are getting what you are looking for. Have the salesperson use progressive scan output on a DVD player to the TV you are thinking of buying to make sure it displays progressive scan signals.

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Q  I am in the market for a 16:9 television with about a 42 inch screen. Although I had been originally thinking of a plasma set, I absolutely do NOT need to take advantage of the set's thin dimension; I have at least two feet of depth space in the cabinet. As I have looked around at other sets, I have found that Samsung makes a DLP based rear projection set that seems to have excellent features: second generation DLP chip, DVI with HDCP, two sets of HD inputs, etc. And the picture quality seems much better than comparable CRT based rear projection TVs.  Here's another serious factor: retail price is 50% less than a 42 inch plasma. Am I missing something, or is it a waste of dollars to get a thin set when the location doesn't call for thin, when and the "coolness" of thin will not be visible? Is a plasma display inherently "better" than a DLP projected screen at same resolution?

A Plasma screens still have some problems, including a tendency to posterize, but they are definitely a very cool product that fits a niche, namely, going in places that you can't fit a box TV. I will probably get a 42" plasma for my kitchen corner by the dining table, because there is no way a rear projection TV would fit there. But, if you don't have the space issue, the DLP projector you mentioned is the way to go. Check to make sure the DLP is native 16:9 though, with at least 1280 x 768 pixels on the DLP chip. Other than that, you should be fine.

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Q I am a beginner in Home theater. I came across the November issue of Consumer Reports which featured articles and tests on home theater components. Here are their recommendations:

Panasonic SAHE100 receiver, Cambridge SoundWorks Model 6 front speakers, NHT SC-1 center, Infinity OWS-1 rear surrounds. My question is for a novice like me how reliable are the reviews and recommendation of this magazine? Can I follow their recommendation without fear and would I be satisfied with such a system?

A Consumer Reports is a reputable magazine, but I think in this case, you might have a better chance of being satisfied by getting a speaker system all from the same company. The brands you mentioned are all good, but stick to getting all the speakers from one of the companies rather than mixing and matching. Don't forget a subwoofer.

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Q I am looking to purchase a Surround Sound Processor (SSP) in the next few years, but none of them have an RF demodulator for Dolby Digital performance from laserdiscs. I have a fairly good collection of laserdiscs, with nearly all of them in DD, and I have yet to take advantage of it, as my current receiver doesn't have the RF demodulator. I am looking at possibly purchasing an older model Kenwood KC-Z1 to use as a temporary SSP and also after upgrading to a newer SSP, possibly still using its RF demodulator for my laserdiscs in DD. Is this a possibility and would the KC-Z1 work well as an RF demodulator in a future higher-end system even after replacing it with a new, higher-end SSP? Would having an extra preamp in the KC-Z1 serve any other purposes beside RF demodulating in a high-end system already possessing a SSP?

A I would suggest that you get an outboard demodulator, which would have a Toslink or coax digital output that would feed your receiver the DD signal. Yamaha used to make one for $100. Kenwood had one too. I don't know the current status of those models. They may have some left. Here is another idea: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/Pioneer/CDA/HomeProducts
/HomeProductDetails/0,1422,332,00.html. At this point, you are looking for old technology, and you may have to go on the newsgroups and post a "Want to Buy", abbreviated WTB in the message line, to see if anyone has an old demodulator they are not using anymore. Also, some of the SSP manufacturers do offer an RF demodulator option.

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Q I am thinking of going DSS and dumping my cable company. Would that be a good decision? Also would I be receiving a better picture, and would I be able to receive HDTV?

A Well, I don't know if it is a good idea or not, but in my experiences with cable, satellite has always given me a better picture. Also, there are some pretty good deals on satellite right now, with free hardware if you sign up for a year contract. Dish Network seems to have the better HD programming right now, but I am sure DirecTV will catch up.

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Q I'm looking to replace my old Sony TV and have about $6,000 to spend. I recently watched what I consider the best picture on a TV, the Loewe 38" Aconda 16:9, but it has no DVI in and only one component in. Was just wondering would this TV be the best buy for my money?

A DVI is starting to turn up on more and more TVs, and we hear that they will be on some new DVD players. Because of this, I suggest you look for a TV with at least one DVI input jack.

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