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Q I've read and appreciated many of your Q&As concerning bi-wiring
and bi-amping. As an EE, I grow more skeptical of the true merits of bi-wiring.
I currently bi-wire two Klipsch RF3 mains from a Yamaha MX-1000 (265w/ch into 8
ohms). I have an unused Yamaha M-70 (200w/ch into 8 ohms). Can you recommend
whether to bi-amp using these slightly different Yamaha amplifiers? If so, can
you recommend I use one amp per side, or split them between woofer and
mid/treble? T Q I just bought a Pioneer Elite 58" TV 2 weeks ago. I connected it to my DirecTV receiver by S-Video. The picture is jagged and blurry (better on DVD, but not great). The store I bought it from says this poor picture quality is normal, and I need to buy a $1,600 external line doubler in order to make the picture good. After paying $5,000 for a TV, I really don't think I should have to pay any more! What do you think? Am I getting ripped off? What do you suggest to improve the quality? A You should be getting a spectacular picture with that setup, and should not be having to buy an external doubler (deinterlacer is the correct term). For DirecTV, I can imagine that the picture is not all that good, because satellite programs are compressed. But, with DVD, you should be happy. It should give you a great picture. I am assuming that your model is digital, because otherwise, they would not have suggested an external deinterlacer. If the TV is not digital and cannot show a progressive image, then the picture might very well be a bit fuzzy at 58" because the scan lines will be visible. But, for $5,000, you should very likely have a progressive scan digital TV. Anyway, your DVD player probably has a progressive output, so try that. The TV will not use its own deinterlacing in that case, and it may give you a better picture. If you have an old DVD player without progressive scan, borrow a player that does have progressive scan. If that helps, buy a modern player with progressive scan output. It does not have to be expensive. The Panasonic players with progressive scan, and no chroma bug, can be had for less than $200 (RP-82 for example). If you can't get a good picture with any of these solutions, ask for an exchange to a TV that does give you the picture you like. Try it out at the store with a DVD player that has progressive scan. T
Q What I want to know is if I
can use the same basic equipment for the sound in my home theater /concert hall
/ multi-room audio without sacrificing quality? T
Q I've bought A/V gear
off the net several times but recently came across a dilemma, namely that some e-tailers
are not authorized to sell certain brands (i.e., Pioneer, Yamaha, and Denon). I called
up the major brands, and of course they say they will not warranty non-authorized
e-tailers of their products. My question is, and the major brands could not tell
me that if the e-tailers are not authorized does that mean that the A/V product
is not manufactured by them all together or the parts are not up to their specs.
Should I not take the chance in ordering from these e-tailers even though I've
never had a problem before? T
Q I have noticed on some HDTV monitors that
satellite pictures will digitize slightly. More specifically, the picture
digitizes when there is a lot of quick movement on the screen. One HDTV model is
the Panasonic PT-56hx41e. Is there any type of filter that can be applied to
lower this? I am using just a standard DishNetwork (not HD). T
Q Is it OK to connect my
subwoofer to the 5.1 analog output on my DVD player? T
Q For the surround speakers, do you recommend
either dipolar or bipolar speakers, or should I look into the switchable type,
like those made by Polk? Are there other manufacturers who make rear speakers
that can be switched from dipolar to T
Q Is there a difference between the Yamaha
DVD C920 and the Yamaha DVD 6480? Both list same apparent specs. Pricing,
marketing channels are different but is there a performance difference?
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