Q I was considering purchasing a Denon DVD-1600 player, but one thing has me puzzled. Why does this unit not have both Toslink and coaxial digital outputs? It only has Toslink outputs. It seems like almost all players have both. Even in Denon's line it appears most of their DVD players have both, including the new DVD-900. It seems that most people consider coaxial to be theoretically better, even though I doubt either method would have trouble transferring the digital 5.1 bits to the processor. Has Toslink gained so much popularity that DVD players are going to start dumping the coaxial output? Based on coaxial supposedly being better, I already have a fairly good coaxial cable that I am using with my current DVD player. If I go with the Denon DVD-1600, I'll have to buy the new cable. I considered the Denon DVD-900 since it has coaxial out thinking it was the same as the DVD-1600 without DVD-Audio (which isn't something I'm real concerned about), but your review makes it clear that it is not. I'm also concerned that if Denon cut corners leaving off the coaxial output, they may have cut corners elsewhere as well. I'm also considering the Sony NS900V, but it has been out for almost a year, and the Denon seemed so much like what I was looking for except the lack of coaxial output. Any suggestions? If I use a Toslink cable, does it really make any difference how high-end a cable I use?

A Mass market products are often built by different divisions, and companies often make them for each other. That is why they come out with different specs. Actually, I prefer Toslink because there are no impedance issues, and I am not positive that the coaxial jacks on mass market players are 75 Ohms. It is more expensive to make the 75 Ohm jack, and perhaps that is why some players don't have them. I have never found a problem with any Toslink cable, even the cheap ones.

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Q What is Scan Velocity Modulation?

A Scan Velocity Modulation (SVM) is a technique used for CRT TV (direct view and RPTV), where the scanning beam is sped up in dark areas and slowed down in the bright areas. This supposedly increases contrast, but what actually happens is an increase in blooming in bright areas. It is something that sort of looks good in the showroom (marketing), but messes up the picture when you sit down to watch a good DVD. Some TVs have an option of turning it off from the menu. Others automatically turn it off when in "Movie Mode".

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Q I am considering adding a subwoofer to my home theater system. You have reviewed the Sunfire Subwoofer Junior and the Velodyne SPL-8. What are the strengths and weakness of each relative to one another? Also, would you recommend either of these for a room with the dimensions: 7.5' Height x 15' Width x 24' Length?

A The Velodyne has less distortion, but the Sunfire will fit in a smaller space. Your room is pretty big, so I would suggest going with a larger subwoofer, perhaps 15".

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Q Most stereo amplifiers have a feature called "Loudness". I connected my friend's stereo amp, with such a feature, to my speakers, and I liked the effect it adds to music. Can I achieve such an effect with a DD receiver that doesn't have the loudness feature?

A The Loudness button boosts the low-mid-bass, so you probably can get a similar effect just by turning up the bass control when you turn the volume down.

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Q Have you seen any, or have the high-end audio manufacturers expressed any interest in building a sound processor/preamp on a PC card? Something of the level of a Lexicon, Meridian, et al., on a PC card? Then, we would be at the day when updating your system just meant swapping out PC cards.

A Some of the high-end processors already let you swap out cards, such as the Theta Casablanca and Meridian processors. Some PC sound cards decode DD and DTS. The difference is that dedicated processors have all the associated DSP chips and switches for source selection. I imagine their power supplies are much quieter too, with more capacity for driving low impedance inputs on power amplifiers. But, it is just a matter of time before complete control of home theater and audio is available from the PC.

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Q Which of listed power amplifiers would be a best match for my Dynaudio Contours 1.3 SE Speakers?
Musical Fidelity A3.2CR
Rotel RB 1080
Meridian 557
NAD SIlverline S 200
Primare 30.2

A The Dynaudios are 86 dB sensitivity and impedance closer to 4 Ohms than 8 Ohms, so I would suggest at least 200 watts per channel (rated into 8 Ohms) to drive them.

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Q Is subwoofer volume controlled independently from the mains? Using a Velodyne SPL-1200 as an example: if the sub volume is set-up and matched to the mains while watching a movie at relatively loud levels, then when the mains are turned down, would you also have to go and physically turn down the sub so that it once again matched to this new volume level? Am I correct in understanding, every time you adjust the main speaker level volume, you would need to adjust the sub volume level too?

A If you only adjust the front left/right (sometimes referred to as the mains), the subwoofer volume will unlikely change, except for the amount of front/left right low frequencies that are directed there if you have them set to "Small". If, by mains, you are referring to the master volume control that changes volume for all channels, then the subwoofer volume will go down when you turn the main volume control down.

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Q What is the best way to break-in new speakers? I am about to purchase a pair of B&W CDM 9NT's and want them to reach their full potential.  Should I send pink noise to the speakers, turn up the volume (to what dB?) and leave the room for several days? Or should I just play regular music and over time this would be a sufficient/proper method of breaking the speakers in? Finally, should the break-in be done continually 24 hours a day, or should the speakers be allowed to rest, with no input to them at times during this period?

A I just listen to the speakers while they are breaking in and enjoy the music. Even when they are not fully broken in, they still sound OK. What I have found is that the break-in process usually means tweeter crispness (too much at first) and bass tightness (too much at first). If the tweeters are too crisp for comfort, I just play the music but go about my business in other rooms for a few days. I turn them off at night. Usually, about 20 hours of break-in are enough.

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