Q&A # 291 - June 7, 2002

Staff

Q I've been reading message boards where people are suggesting that a HTPC (home theater PC) delivers better quality DVD playback than traditional DVD players. If one uses a DVD-ROM drive with one of the latest high performance NVidia or ATI graphics cards (say, $150-200), how does this compare to a good progressive-scan DVD player such as the Panasonic RP56 or equivalent? Also have you ever tested a DVD-ROM & graphics card combo as you did on all those dedicated DVD players in 2000 and 2001? There appears to be a trend toward PCs and consumer electronics merging and I think many people out there would be interested in your thoughts.

A Funny you should ask. One of our new writers is preparing an article on exactly this subject. He is using a combination of different software players to get the best results, along with some freeware that allows you to use the combination. I am anxious to read about how he does it. The short answer to your question is that no single solution beats an outboard DVD player, but the combination does compare nicely. And, you will be able to control the resolution on your projector with a very inexpensive software program.

Q On the rear of my receiver there are the outputs for the 5.1 labeling each individual speaker. Then there is front A, rear, center, and subwoofer. Is it better to wire each individual speaker to the 5.1 slots where it has female ends or does it matter if I just hook up the speakers the other way? Will this affect my sound? In addition, does it matter if I use fiber optic or should I be using something different?

A This question shows that manufacturers still need to work on clarifying their instruction manuals. Surround sound has made the whole thing a lot more confusing, and their are plenty of consumers just getting into home theater. Use the five pairs of speaker binding posts (photo shown below) to connect your speakers. Some receivers have two sets for the front left/right, labeled "A' and "B". Use the "A" set. Some also have a set for front effects, and they could be labeled "Front", while the front left/right are labeled "Main". Be sure you match the connection of the red and black posts on the receiver to the red and black posts on the speakers. Toslink optical cables are fine for connecting DVD players to receivers. They will reduce the likelihood of ground loops.

Q What's the word on DVD-VHS combos such as Panasonic PV 4752 and PV4762? I have a projector (a Boxlight 13 HD) so I am looking for high quality. I have a Pioneer 434 which I don't like. If you don't think much of that combo, is there another one that you would recommend? Or should I buy a Panasonic RP 56?

A One thing you need to remember with the combo packages is that they will not record DVDs onto the VHS, even though both formats are in the same chassis. Also, you commit yourself to the DVD player in that combo unit, and things are still changing. So, I recommend that you forget the combo and just get a basic VHS VCR, a hard disc recorder such as TiVo or ReplayTV, and a separate DVD player. The RP-56 has been discontinued, being replaced by newer model numbers.

Q Are there DVD players which claim to be progressive scan but are not? The more expensive DVD players state they are "True Progressive Scan" while some others like the Toshiba SD3750 (half the price) say they are "Digital Cinema Progressive". More specifically, the SD3750 has a registered name for it: "Super Color Stream", or as a sales person at a local store calls it, "Progressive SCAM". So is it or isn't it? And is the difference significant enough to fork out the extra $200?

A These are all marketing names for the same thing: Progressive Scan. I think your sales person is just getting a little frustrated because he has to explain what these confusing terms mean. You don't have to pay an extra $200 for that feature though. I have it on my Toshiba SD-K700, along with 24/192 DACs. I got it for less than $200. In any case, I would say that it is worthwhile to buy a player with progressive scan output, because it is done in the digital domain before outputting the analog video signal to your projector or HDTV. Pioneer released the 434 and 444, which are progressive, but don't have 3-2 pulldown detection.

Q I purchased the Denon 2800 based on your very professional review. Kindly advice regarding the following:
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1. Almost every title I play combs occasionally. (I use the Infocus LS-110 projector on a 16:9 Da-Lite 45" X 80" + 13 meter long component video cable by Monster.) I must say its quiet frustrating since I deliberately purchased the Denon which passed most of your tests and the most expensive Monster component cable. Could combing be related to the LS-110 or maybe some other parameter, setup, etc.? 2. Could it relate to the 2800's firmware? How can I check which firmware my Denon has?

A Early production runs of that model did have some problems, but the one we tested was OK. You should contact Denon and see if your particular one (have the serial number handy when you make the call) is one with the problems. I think they may be able to fix it with a chip exchange, but am not positive about this.

Q Enjoyed reading your latest review of the SVS CS - Ultra sub. I looked at it before deciding on the one I went with just a short time ago -- the ACI Titan II LE.

Your comments about the spouse acceptance factor were very well taken. There would be no way possible that my wife would allow the SVS sub into our home -- no matter how great its performance might be. I suspect this practical consideration determines which sub is selected far more often in the real world than manufacturers realize. The ACI Titan II LE won out on appearance alone, hands down! My wife thought it looked just fine -- this, after telling me that there is no way we are going to have another piece of audio equipment in this room! I searched for a long time before I found the ACI sub on the internet. It performs just fine .. and it looks great!

The SVS may be for bachelors. But the ACI is for the rest of us guys who happen to be married . . . and don't want to be engaged in endless discussions about sacrificing "room decor" for sound.

A Yes, appearance does make a difference, and for us married guys, is just as important as the performance. There are a couple of ways to deal with the WAF. One is to give her a free hand in getting whatever she likes for her own interests, such as clothes or gardening, etc. As a trade, you can get whatever you like for the home theater. Secondly, if you have an extra room that you can dedicate for audio and home theater, have an agreement that you can set it up with whatever you like, and leave the living room alone. It works well for me. The living room is beautiful, and the home theater is a killer. I have totally dedicated it to performance, not decor.

Q I am thinking about getting a CRT front projector. Do I need a scaler to go with it?

A Yes, you do. Although scalers are generally built-in with digital projectors, they are not present in CRT projectors. You can just connect a DVD player direct to the projector, but it looks terrible because the scan lines are visible on big screens. However, you don't have to spend a fortune on scalers. There are a number of them at just a few hundred dollars.

Q I'm looking for a new amplifier, specifically the Pioneer A209R, which has 60 watts at 4 Ohms and 45 watts at 8 Ohm. My speakers are 6 Ohm. Should I buy a new pair of speakers with the correct impedance? Can the amplifier be damaged if I put it at 4 or 8 Ohm? If not, which should be the correct impedance to work with? This amplifier has a "low impedance driving capability". Lets say, it is at 8 Ohm. This means that it detects that the speakers have less impedance and it automatically adjusts it?

A Speaker impedance ratings represent an average. If it is stated as being 8 Ohms, this means that it averages 8 Ohms. The impedance changes with the frequency. It could dip down to 5 at some frequencies and go up to 12 at others. They refer to it as a "Nominal" impedance of 8 Ohms. If the nominal impedance is 4 Ohms, then it probably dips to 2 Ohms and goes up to 10 or so. As the impedance drops, the amplifier has to deliver more and more current at the same voltage (volume control setting), and this is tough for the amplifier to do. With mass market products, it is better to use 8 Ohm speakers, but 6 Ohm speakers will be OK for you to use.

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