Q&A # 263 - November 6, 2001

Staff

Q I have a DVD player that has optical, digital coax, and six analog out connections. I also have a DD/DTS receiver with numerous optical and digital coax input connections, as well as a six-channel analog-in connection.  Will DTS-CDs and DVD-A work in this setup? Do the analog connections have to be used with DTS-CDs as in DVD-Audio? And while none of my manuals say
anything about DVD-Audio, would this work with my analog connections, or is a different kind of processor needed (other than my Dolby Digital/DTS processor in my receiver)?

A Although DTS surround on a DVD could be considered a type of DVD-A, it is not officially so. DVD-A is six channels of 24/96, while DTS and DD, although six channels also, are a completely different format, and require a different type of decoding. DTS also exists on CDs, but that is obviously not considered DVD-A, because it is on CD rather than DVD. The official DVD-A format requires a player that has the chips for DVD-A decoding. DVD-A music discs have a separate set of tracks in DD, which means you can play the discs in your DVD player and get the six-channel surround sound music, but it won't be the quality of DVD-A. For one thing, DD is 20 bit - 48 kHz, while DVD-A is 24 bit - 96 kHz. Secondly, DD (and DTS) are compressed, which will deliver slightly less quality than uncompressed audio, no matter how good the marketing campaign. Interestingly, DTS technology allows six-channel 24/96, so I am wondering if we might see DTS high-res music discs at some point.

Q I have a Pioneer VSX-305 receiver and would like to know the proper way to find continuous power coming out of my amp. I have a digital multimeter and an 8 ohm non-inductive resistor to use it as a load. What do I have to do now? I understand Ohm's law.

A Since you do not have a way of measuring distortion, I would suggest putting your multimeter in series with the + side of one speaker and turn up the volume until you hear audible distortion. Of course, speaker distortion will be part of that picture. Make a note of the current flowing with your multimeter. Then, calculate voltage by the formula E = I x R, where E is the voltage, I is the current, and R is the nominal impedance. Then calculate the watts (power) with the formula P = E x I, where P is the power, E is the voltage, and I is the current. This will give you an approximation of the power your receiver has in one channel, for your particular situation (receiver and speakers). When doing the measurements, have all speakers connected to the receiver.

Q I recently stumbled upon a good deal on an LCD projector, the Hitachi CP-L850W. Since this will be my first foray into the world of projectors, I  was hoping you could aid me in assessing this projector for home theater purposes.

A Although there are some excellent LCD projectors out there, you have to be careful, because most projectors are made for computer graphics presentations at business meetings. They might not have good enough contrast for movies, or have 3:2 pull-down technology built-in, or have an anamorphic mode for showing anamorphic DVDs. DLP has better contrast than LCD, but comparably priced DLP projectors only have one panel for all three colors, and also, DLP is only just beginning to have 16:9 panels (Sharp brand), while there are several 16:9 LCD projectors. 16:9 capability is very important, because 16:9 anamorphic DVDs are becoming the norm. I think you should just try this particular Hitachi projector with your DVD player and see if it gives you what you want, before you finalize purchasing it.

Q I have the opportunity to buy a relative cheap Sony VPL-PX30 projector with very little use. It has a 4:3 ratio, XGA resolution, and 2400 lumens of brightness. It has many inputs including component and digital RGB (DFP). Is this a good home cinema projector? Will I lose much because its 4:3 (when watching widescreen DVD movies) compared to a 16:9 television or a 16:9 projector?

A Again, be very careful when trying to adapt a data projector to home theater. XGA would be OK if you had 16:9 panels, but since they are 4:3, when you watch 16:9 movies, you will lose part of the XGA. If you can get the projector for $1,000, it might be worthwhile. Otherwise, wait for something better.

Q Do you know anything about Sony's new 40 inch direct view TV, the KV-40XBR700? I want to upgrade to an HDTV and have space to accommodate this mammoth set. Is there any reason to get a 16:9 type model, such as the KD-34XBR2? I know that the 34XBR2 has a HD receiver built-in, but other than that, is there any material difference between the sets? In 16:9 mode, the 40-XBR700 produces a picture that is actually about the same size as the one seen on the 34XBR2. But for 4:3 viewing, the XBR700 is significantly larger.

A Because some of the new 4:3 sets change the scan pattern to deliver all the scan lines in a smaller section of the picture tube, the concept of buying a 4:3 vs. 16:9 has changed. It is quite possible that the resolution on the 4:3 in 16:9 mode could be the same as the smaller 16:9 TV. Just make sure that the 4:3 TV has full HDTV capability. You are talking a big investment, so don't be bashful about taking some DVDs to the store and trying things out. Compare the 16:9 image on both sets. If the native 16:9 set looks better in 16:9, I would suggest getting that one, even though the 4:3 mode image would be smaller, because 16:9 is the way things are headed. In any case, see the question below, about Firewire on HDTV sets.

Q I newspaper article said that all of the HDTV ready sets sold up until now without DTCP encryption and Firewire inputs will not be able to receive a lot of HDTV programming at full resolution. I want to buy a Panasonic set as I can get one at cost through them, but I haven't been able to get any information on when they (or anyone else) might be releasing a set like this. Do you know anything about this, and since I can continue to wait, do you agree the newspaper (LA Times) story that it would be worthwhile to do so?

A It is really quite true that the new agreements about encryption and Firewire input needed to see full resolution (1080i - 720p) HDTV will cause a problem for current HDTVs that don't have the Firewire input. Under that agreement, you would need an adapter box for the current HDTV set, and this box would down-convert incoming HDTV to 480i or 480p. Your HDTV could up-convert it to 1080i again, but high resolution information would be lost. Another acronym you need to be familiar with is HAVi, which means Home Audio Video Interoperability. Here is a link that discusses the whole issue http://www.chumpchange.com/parkplace/Video/DVPapers/FireWire.htm. I don't think everything is settled yet, but is sure is messy for us consumers.

Q Please let me know if there is a way to reduce reflection or glare for big screen TV. I have a 55 inch Mitsubishi Platinum Plus.

A The way I do this which works for direct view as well as big screen TVs, is to install blackout shades (blinds) behind the window curtains. You pull them down when watching TV during the day, and they work for projection TV too. I also have them across our French Doors, because they have glass panes in the door panel. For your big screen TV, it will be most important to do this for windows directly behind you in the viewing position. Blackout blinds are available from such places as BlindsGalore  http://www.blindsgalore.com/blindsgalore/default.asp?popup=off. HunterDouglas is a good brand of blinds.

Q I had occasion to remove the cover of my Panasonic RP56 (to fix a bad rattle), and since I bought it due to your update results (performance tests and mention that it contained the Sage/Faroudja deinterlacing chip), I thought I might as well try to verify that. However, I could not (but maybe it's buried well! or licensed to Panasonic who make the chip).  In the main processing board, there was no chip indicating Sage or Faroudja or FLI2200.  But there were 5 main chips -- 3 Panasonic (one Dolby, one must be the MPEG decoder, and one other), one was a Samsung chip, and the fifth and smallest was Analog Devices (for the audio I assume). Maybe it's buried to the naked eye (or do you know how to verify?) Or did Panasonic maybe send you folks a ringer for the test?
Still testing this player; it's brand new; but so far it hasn't knocked me out.

A The chip is mounted to the bottom of a PCB. You will not see it unless you pull the board out. Of course you don't have to do that because it is very obvious it is using a Sage chip die to the DCDi. If you have Video Essentials, jump to the montage of images sequence. Watch the American flag blowing in the wind. The red and white transitions are clean. Nobody else can do this because Faroudja holds the patent on it.

Panasonic did not provide us with the RP56; we purchased it from a retailer. There is no way a manufacturer would spend the money to build a single "ringer" unit. It would costs them thousands in R&D just to design and build a single player. It would also be very stupid. Eventually, they would be found out.

� Copyright 2001 Secrets of Home Theater & High Fidelity
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