Q&A # 252 - September 12, 2001

Staff

Q Just my luck... figures. When I finally break down and buy the 2800 model, they release a 5 disc progressive player- DVM-4800.

I noticed that on Denon's website, they list the genesis chip as powering the new DVM-4800 player. I'm curious why they would go to the genesis chip, unless it's a newer version???

I like the idea it has the addition of DVD-Audio, but I really don't want to degrade the video quality at the same time. I'm curious what your take is on their use of the Genesis chip. As far as video is concerned, which would you personally recommend? And yes Burr Brown DACs would be nice for the audio. I don't even know what's in my 2800 model.

Now If I can only get my hands on the new 24/384 DACs that THETA are working on (evil grin).

A Although changing chips might eliminate one problem, none of the chips are perfect, and I suspect they never will. It is a matter of priorities. Also, the rest of the circuitry affects performance too. The engineers decide how much edge enhancement to put in for the default position, whether or not to roll off the high frequency video response, and so on. What we emphasize is overall performance, including the video, audio, and its ergonomics. Burr-Brown does make excellent DACs, but they make a full range of quality in various DACs. Some 24/96 DACs are only a couple of dollars, and some 16/44.1 DACs are forty dollars, so you see that it is not simply the name, or the sampling frequency, or the price that has to be considered.

Q I have an AV room that is 15 feet by 19 feet by 8 feet high. I am considering buying the M&K SS200 or 250 tripole speakers for the sides but am unsure what to buy for the rear wall speakers for 7.1 setup. Would you recommend only one or two rear wall speakers and what kind---tripole vs dipole versus direct radiators for this room which will be used entirely for movies?

A I'd say that either would be fine in each application. Two rear-wall speakers will give you better envelopment, but one should be OK too, particularly if the side speakers are a bit more to the rear than straight to the side. It is really just a matter of personal taste rather than any particular rule. Tripole and dipole will give you a more diffuse sound.

Q I would like a nice HT system in the $1000 - $2000 range. Over the weekend I looked at several systems from Circuit City and a small local outfit. Circuit City recommended a Polk satellite system with a 12" sub, powered by an Onkyo, anf the local outfit recommended a Klipsch satellite system powered by Yamaha. I have looked at several Bose systems but have been unimpressed by their bass response. To sum up what I am seeking would be a quality system I won't immediately feel like upgrading and will provide a great bass feel, yet still provide crystal clear dialogue and allow my good friends to be mildly overwhelmed.

A Well, what I would suggest is something that does not beg to be upgraded right away, but is easily upgraded when you decide to do it. So, either the Onkyo or Yamaha receivers would be fine, as long as they have a set of 5.1 inputs and a set of pre-outs for all channels. Many receivers have one or the other, but getting both may require some research. That way, you can play DVD-A and multi-channel SACD in the future, and also add an outboard power amplifier later on. Get a 12" subwoofer, and later on, use it for the center channel, with a larger sub (18") for the main subwoofer output. But, as you found out with the Bose, it is important to listen to what you plan to buy, not just go from recommendations in magazines.

Q I have three NHT Super Ones which I used for surrounds and center. I have replaced the surrounds and I want to experiment using all three speakers for a single center channel. Would I wire these in series or parallel? Also would there be a problem with impedance? My receiver is a JVC 888 with 100W per channel.

A If you wire them in parallel, the impedance will be much too low for your receiver. However, if you wire them all in series, the impedance may be so high, it reduces your volume. If you wire two in parallel and one in series with those two, the impedance will probably be OK, so I suggest that route.

Q Could you give me some insight on the Paradigm Active 40s? Originally I was just considering the Active 20s, but when I noticed that the 40s were only about $300 more, I thought I might as well consider those too. I've read that the 20 uses one active crossover, while the 40 uses one active and one passive. Given the benefits I've read about using active instead of passive crossovers, do the 40s sacrifice definition or clarity in order to achieve lower bass extension? I've seen a lot of glowing reviews for the 20s, but much fewer for the 40s. Does this mean that the 20s are generally considered superior to the 40s in some way? What's your impression of the 40s vs. the 20s? Do you think the 40s are worth the extra $300?

A On the topic of crossover, do not misunderstand the basic design of the 40s vs. the 20s. The 20s are a two way: One tweeter crosses over to a woofer. The 40s are a 2-1/2 way: One tweeter crosses over to a pair of woofers, one of which has its own low pass. In other words, the lower
(black) woofer only voices the bass where the other (gold) voices both midrange and bass.

When we apply the 'active' design to these basic formats, it goes like this: The input take the line level signal and divides it with an active cross-over to the tweeter amplifier and the woofer amplifier (this alone makes the actives light years better than a passive design). The only difference with the 40s is that the 'bass-only' driver still has its own passive low pass. Its presence therefore is not a drawback as compared to the 20s, but rather a necessity for the 40's extra bass-only woofer.

The added extension is there in the 40s (be they passive or active models), but in my mind it is bass quality that is the real "plus" in the 40s. The extra woofer, simply stated, shares the bass load and so the two cones need only go half the distance for a given output as compared to the lone woofer in a 20. This nets you less distortion and greater dynamics.

One could argue that the 20s with their smaller profile may do ever so slightly better in the midrange, but such could only be realized in an ideal environment. Budget notwithstanding, I feel the 40s are a better choice unless you are in a very very small space with the speakers abnormally close to you.

Q I have a Marantz SR7000 with Definitive Technology Procinema 100s. I'm planning to upgrade the speakers to Mirage OM-7 or OM-9. I am also planning to get the Marantz SR7200. Will the Marantz be enough for the Mirages or will I need an outboard power amp? If so what kind of amp in regards to watts and 3 or 5 channel? Also what is your opinion on a Marantz/Mirage combo?

A Yes, you are talking about receivers that have plenty of power to handle these speakers, but don't rule out an outboard power amp later on to add even more striking dynamics. Your OM-7s or OM-9s will do fine with more power, and you will have the omnipolar sound to boot.

Q Recently I was told by a representative at One Call that Toshiba didn't allow mail order sale of its HX Cinema series RPTVs. I'm pretty much ready to go with either the 57H81 or 57HX81 but am holding off so I can hear your opinions on the differences and the cost benefit of going with either set. At this time it is my understanding that the HX set is different with more up to date technology, has a better anti-glare shield and a bit better on board speaker system. When I get my new toy I would like to think I made the right choice and wonder if not having these "extras" will bother me.  So far I haven't found any dealers on the internet that sell the HX sets. Perhaps the Cinema Series will in fact have to be purchased at a local dealer? I'm thinking this will make it harder to find a competitive price. Anyway, I will await your input before I make this big buy. Thanks for the great website and for your help on this subject. 

A It may be that the anti-glare shield and on board speakers are the only difference. If that is so, then get the 57H81 because you would be best to watch the TV in a darkened room anyway, and would be using an outboard processor, amplifier, and speakers to watch DVDs through the TV. You should also go on some of the A/V newsgroups and post your question about differences between these two models.

Q I have a receiver that I am considering running a separate preamp through to use with my CDs in a way that completely bypasses the receiver. The preamp is solid state and costs $300. Will I get better sound this way, for my CD listening?

A I doubt it. The preamp you are considering is probably not any better than the preamp in your receiver. In fact, it might even be not as good. If you want to do something like this, then get a really good preamp, perhaps even a single ended Class A triode (tube) type that will give you a completely different type of sound than your receiver does.

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