Q&A # 250 - August 30, 2001

Staff

Q  I have both the Avia and V.E. discs, but have not used them for the relative/absolute levels, but I will do so now, and most likely will use the Avia. I have used a Radio Shack Digital not Analog meter during my SPL setting. Is one preferred over the other?

A Not really. Its just easier to read the analog needle sometimes where the digital one keeps changing. On the other hand, the digital meter reads to the nearest dB.

Q In reference to your discussion of "absolute" playback levels, do I set my SPL's at relative, then do it again at absolute, or do you mean one or the other/any one of the two?

A Using the test noise on AVIA, set all channels to be the same level. It's not terribly important what that level is, only that all channels (including the subwoofer) are adjusted to produce the same SPL. That is relative level and is critical. If you want to go a step further, set the levels such that you are reading 85 dB (using AVIA) on the SPL meter and take note of where your master volume is at. That level is "reference" level, but I warn you: It's friggin' loud!

 

Q Jason at One Call suggested I get MDF or SDF board to place between my two Velodyne CT-150 subs and build a pedestal, bringing the top sub slightly off the surface of the bottom sub to isolate from vibrations. Do you think all the hassle of building a pedestal is necessary, or just place the high density board material sandwiched between the subs?

A If I recall, the CT-150 comes with four rubber feet which can be stuck to the bottom. I never used mine because it sits on carpet. I would use them on the second sub and see how that works alone. Set the controls on both subs exactly the same.

Q Is the the RE-EQ circuit setting on my Onkyo receiver the same as the Dynamic Range Control on my Toshiba DVD player? I have them both off at all times. I'm not sure if there is an actual "mild" setting, it's either in/out or on/off.

A RE-EQ and DRC are not the same thing. So, look for DRC in the Onkyo, though they might call it by a different name ("Midnight Mode" or something). You'll have to look in your manual for this one.

Q Are My B&W's a good HT speaker? Are my - 30 dB to - 18 dB volume levels OK as far as my listening levels go, or am I really taxing the amp? My receiver is a high current amp, and rated at 130 watts into 8 ohms for each channel.

A B&W makes good stuff. The "numbers" on your volume are pretty ambiguous. They don't indicate dB in SPL, but rather, dB in reference to the maximum rated output of your receiver. At "0 dB" on your receiver panel readout, this is supposed to mean 130 watts output. I'd recommend finding the volume position which gives a sound about 75 dB in SPL at your listening position. Our ears are precious. Please listen responsibly.

Q Are there any benefits using a tube preamp in a moderately priced system? Will it add warmth? Are there any that are priced reasonably? I'm upgrading my system to a Parasound HCA-1500A with my Magneplanar MMGs. I guess like most other people I want it all on a limited budget!

A Tubes tend to have laid back highs and mostly even-ordered harmonic distortion. That is a better definition of their sound than "warm", but yes, they will add that character to any system. However, just as with solid state, there are some tube amplifiers that are not very good quality, so you have to shop carefully. One of the better values out there is Audio Electronic Supply (http://www.audioelectronicsupply.com).

Q After reading Shootout # 2, I came across a few instances where you referred to the Chroma Bug problem for certain players as placing them "somewhere in the middle of the pack as to visibility of the bug" (your quote from the Arcam DV-27 review).

And you further state that you've seen so much of this bug that you "can spot a tiny amount of it from across the street" (same review).

Therefore, one must assume that you are capable of ranking these units as to their placement in that Pack -- from worst to least noticeable among this group -- based on your experiences, instead of merely stating that it Passed or Failed.

Can you do that? It would be most helpful.

I spent a great deal of time evaluating your test results of these listed units. The "highest-ranking" ones, with the least number of failed Tests, include...
Q50 = 2 X's
TVP = 2 X's
DVD-2800 = 3 X's
DV27 = 3 X's

If I ignore the two tests -- BC and A -- which you've also stated are "not common situations" (Denon DVD-2800 review), these contenders for my dollars improve considerably -- with the one lingering question being that I, personally, do not know, yet, if the Chroma Bug will, indeed, be a problem for me. This will be my first player purchase to go with my first HDTV.

Therefore, it would help if you could at least rank those four players as to the "visibility of that bug" relative to the Pack.


A The Progressive Shootout is only one of several reports that we are publishing on the players, and that is why we do not rank them in any particular article. This first article represents the objective measurements on the bench. Each player will have its own specific review where we get into subjective impressions. Secondly, such individual things as the Chroma Bug are not enough to rank a player. Many people will not even notice the Chroma Bug. It is only one item. There are other components that you can use to eliminate the chroma bug (outboard deinterlacers for example), but they could introduce other problems, like softening the picture. Each player has its own advantages and disadvantages. One of the players we tested had a bad chroma bug, but moved from chapter to chapter when scanning with the remote control, incredibly fast. You have to decide which things are most important to you. You could buy any of the players and enjoy your movies just fine. What we are trying to do is dig deep into the technology and find out what problems there are so that the potential of this fantastic digital medium can be maximized.

Q Every unit in your list that does not suffer the chroma problem suffers in quality or performance in other ways, as well, according to your summations of your tests. But how do I tell by what degree? Is "ringing" more of an issue than "chroma", for instance?

A Actually, to me (JEJ), ringing is more noticeable than the Chroma Bug, because it adds an overly sharp edge to everything. But that is just me. To some, the Chroma Bug is more noticeable. The amount of ringing will be published in the individual player reports.

� Copyright 2001 Secrets of Home Theater & High Fidelity
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