Q&A # 244 - August 7, 2001

Staff

Q I recently upgraded my digital source to a Theta David. My old D/A converter is a Theta DS Prime with only "red book" decoding capability, and I plan to upgrade it to a 24/96 D/A. Here come my questions: (1) I could get a Theta Casa Nova, but I don't care much about multi-channel, so this would just be overkill. Also, I'm very satisfied with my power amp (Classe CA300) and speakers (Dynaudio Contour 3.3), having no intention to change/add any other component. Do you know any good STEREO-ONLY 24/96 D/A converter in the $2,500-$3,000 USD range? (2) It appears that most modern D/A converters have volume controls. If I find one that implements volume control in the analogue domain (no digital volume control, thank you!), and has an analogue input (for my tuner) is it a good idea to keep my preamp (Classe CP60) or is better to connect the D/A directly to my power amp?

A The Assemblage DAC 3.1 that we just reviewed is a superb 24/96 unit, and is right in your price range. However, even though you might not be interested in multi-channel right now, you probably will when DVD-A and multi-channel SACD take off, so a multi-channel preamp/processor should still be on your list to check out. It won't be overkill if you just get the basic modules for two-channel control for the time being. A DAC with a built-in analog volume control has to use volume control circuits the same way as a dedicated preamplifier so there is no real advantage in using the DAC's volume control. A good preamp has very sophisticated circuitry to do the job right, so I would suggest staying with a regular preamplifier.

Q My current setup is a Nytech CA252 (25 watts per channel) integrated amplifier driving a pair of Linn Kan (original) speakers. I intend to convert to HT knowing that I will spend some 80% of my time in music. I would like the HT system to play music well (as good as my current setup) and also able to handle HT sound effects for movies.

Should I go for the Yamaha RX-V620 or 800 receiver to drive a pair of JM Lab 715 or 725 main speakers? I plan to use my old Linn Kan as rear speakers. As for the centre, a JM Lab CC700 will compliment the setup.

Should I use my Nytech or the Yamaha to drive the JM Lab main speaker for music? For movies, I will let the Yamaha drive the main speakers.

Please comment on my choice of receiver and speakers and how the Linn Kan would blend as rear speakers.

A The mix of speakers will work as long as they are neutral in tonality. It sounds like you are into action films, so get the more powerful of the two receivers, and don't forget the subwoofer. You will want something with a 15" driver for all those crashes and explosions.

Q I just bought a 36 inch Sony XBR450. Should I buy Sony's new DVP-NS700 progressive scan DVD player? Or, is a standard DVD player like the NS300 good enough since the TV already includes reverse 3-2 Pull Down Technology (and a line doubler of course)?

A If you have a TV that is capable of progressive scan display, you should get a progressive scan DVD player. Although the final image on the TV is progressive scan regardless, you will often get a better picture by letting the player output a progressive scan signal rather than sending an interlaced signal and having the TV convert it.

Q I just picked up a Denon AVR 5800 and I wanted to know what kind of speaker to use for the 6th channel? I have a Klipsch center channel speaker that I can use, but I don't know if this is right type of speaker for that channel or do I need to get another type?

A The Klipsch speaker should work very well because Klipsch have good sensitivity and 8 Ohm impedance.

Q I am about to upgrade my home theater speakers. My receiver is Yamaha RX-V3000 and I am looking at two sets of speakers from Klipsch, namely the SF-1 or SF-2 floor standing with surround and center channel. I would like to know which of the two sets of speakers is the better one for my home theater and music setup. I have a Velodyne subwoofer and would really like to know as soon as possible about which speakers are the best for my setup and if you think it's a ok setup for a budget home theater.

A The SF-2s would be the best choice because, for an additional $150 per pair, you get two woofer drivers per speaker instead of one, but also, the sensitivity increases to 96 dB instead of 94. With mass market receivers, higher sensitivity is good.

Q The four speakers I use for my home theater system are very small (3"). The subwoofer has to produce the mid and low range sounds for the system. The A/V receiver I use has a low frequency range of 20 Hz to 120Hz. I have two subwoofers and would like to make or buy something to send a 90 Hz-120 Hz frequency range from the receiver to one subwoofer and 90 Hz and below to the  other subwoofer. I want to prevent using only one subwoofer from emitting the full range of frequencies (it sounds like it has trouble sometimes). I don't want to spend a lot of money, but my knowledge of circuitry has faded me. I know when I was young, I used some sort of a part to keep low frequency signals from going to my tweeters and I remember it was a very small part. One more question, which pole (+,-) would I need to connect the part to and which pole is which on an RCA plug?

A For one of the subwoofers, just set the low pass control for 90 Hz. For the other one, get yourself one of the inexpensive EQ (equalizers) at Circuit City or other mass market electronics stores, and use the frequency band sliders to roll off everything below 90 Hz and above 120 Hz (push all the sliders down except for those in the 90 Hz - 120 Hz area). Using a capacitor and inductor in between the receiver and subwoofer would work too, but it requires knowing the impedances of the amplifier to do the calculations for obtaining the values.

Q No sound coming from subwoofer. Worked fine fist six months. Other speakers working fine in system. Unplugged all speaker wires and cables then replugged them. Worked O.K. for five minutes, then no sound. HELP!!

A There are a number of things to check in situations like this. First, check fuses, which are usually in the back panel. Secondly, make sure all the AC cords are plugged in securely (unplug them if you have to change a blown fuse). Third, try switching the interconnect that you are using for the subwoofer with one of the other interconnects. If one of the RCA plugs is faulty, this will be revealed. Fourth, turn the subwoofer volume down. If it is being overdriven, this could cause the internal protection circuit to shut it down. Fifth, use a Rec-Out jack from the receiver to the subwoofer to see if it might be a faulty Subwoofer-Out jack.

Q Can you tell me what is the Progressive NTSC standard? Is it 480p HDTV?

A NTSC is 480i (525 lines of interlaced video, but only 480 lines are visible). HDTV only includes 1080i and 720p. The other formats are DTV (Digital TV), but not HDTV. 480p is created either in native, such as with a DVD, or is line-doubled from 480i, such as when watching a regular TV program on a digital TV that automatically converts 480i to 480p (often they convert it to 1080i). Ah, the good old days when it was just a TV with an on/off button, volume control, and three channels to choose from.

� Copyright 2001 Secrets of Home Theater & High Fidelity
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