Q&A # 232 - May 31, 2001

Staff

Q I am trying to decide what amp to get for my system. I am using a Lexicon DC-1 processor and Paradigm Reference speakers (Studio 20 fronts and rears, Studio CC center, Servo-15 sub). I plan to eventually add Studio ADP sides for a 7.1 setup. Right now I am using a Denon 3300 receiver as an amp (I used to use the 3300 for processing before I got the DC-1). The two amps I am most interested in are the Anthem MCA-5 and the Bryston 9BST. I have no Bryston dealer anywhere near me, so I have only heard the Anthem. For my setup, is the Bryston worth the extra cost (roughly twice as expensive)? If I go with the Bryston, I would get the 3BST for the fronts when I go to 7.1. If I get the Anthem, I would by tempted to get a second MCA-5 when I go to 7.1 and passively bi-amp the fronts and center with the extra three channels.

A We found the Anthem and Bryston amps' sound to be very similar, and both have a large bandwidth. In your situation, the Anthem seems the prudent choice since it is obvious you want to expand beyond just 5.1 and could use the extra channels provided by two MCA-5s.

Q If my subwoofer has an internal crossover that I can't bypass, what happens when I send an 80 Hz signal from my processor to the subwoofer? Does this subject the signal to two crossovers in series? Should I also set my sub's crossover to 80 Hz to comply with THX?

A Yes, the signal will pass through two crossovers and be subject to more phase shift as a result. I gather your subwoofer does not have a switch to bypass its own crossover. However, even if it did, using a low-pass frequency of 80 Hz might be too high, as all frequencies above about 50 Hz are localizable. If you are using large speakers, set the bass management to "Large" and your subwoofer low-pass to about 50 Hz. If you have a THX processor, and are using it in THX mode, set your subwoofer low-pass to its highest setting, i.e., 150 Hz. This will minimize the phase shift induced by the subwoofer crossover at 80 Hz and below, which is the crossover of your processor subwoofer output.

Q I am about to purchase an HDTV RPTV set and was also considering purchase of a scan rate converter-such as those by Farojuda and Runco. Do you have any experience with these units and how they work with NTSC and DVD? I have heard the upconverters in the TVs themselves are
not very good. Will I have problems with certain sets in bypassing their converters? Any sets you recommend I audition?

A This issue has been compounded by the recent addition of LCD and DLP Rear Projection TVs in the HDTV models. Some RPTVs upconvert everything to 1080i, while others might upconvert to a different resolution. You would have to determine whether the model of TV you are considering is a CRT or LCD/DLP projector, and which resolution it upconverts the programs to. Matching the Faroudja, Runco, iScan, etc., to the CRT projector's final resolution might bypass its upconverter, but with LCD/DLP projectors, the viewed image is always converted to a pixel resolution, such as 1366 x 768, and it is probably that you cannot bypass that even by matching it to the output of the outboard scaler. Most consumer RPTVs have mediocre internal scalers, so you are correct in wanting to consider an outboard one. I would suggest some intense scrutiny at the TV stores, and discussing it with a knowledgeable sales person, then getting the scaler and testing it with the TV before you purchase it.

Q Can you advise me as to the difference between the Pioneer DV-C603 and Elite DC-C36 DVD players? The specs seem similar but the prices differ greatly.

A The differences will be in the parts quality, including the DACs, capacitors, resistors, etc. The chassis will also be more solid in the expensive unit. In our Benchmark tests, we have found the more expensive players in general to have a smoother audio frequency response.

Q I've seen many frequencies bandwidth for receivers and pre/processors. Some companies say 10 MHz wideband is good enough, others like Denon's 5800 is at 50 MHz. What is correct and what range should I be concerned with? Integra Research's new RDC-7 indicates 45 MHz, Outlaw's future pre/processor is indicating 40 MHz. What is a good rule of thumb? How critical is the length of the individual signal cables? My component video cables are separate cables. If the length is off by a fraction, what effect does it have? Do the receivers, DVD players, or HDTVs compensate somehow?

A Even with 100 MHz oscilloscopes, we have seen rolloff begin at 60 MHz. So, in our upcoming Benchmark tests, we are using a 500 MHz scope. The point is that when they say bandwidth is 50 MHz, it is not flat at 50 MHz, and rolloff is likely to begin far below that. Plus, you have to deal with the loss at the switcher's input jacks and its output jacks. The bottom line is that all the switchers will result in some signal loss. If you want the best possible video, use a separate set of component video cables from each source, such as a progressive video DVD player, and an HDTV tuner, assuming that you have two sets of component video inputs on your HDTV. Because the speed of electrical transmission is so high, it is unlikely that a slight difference in one of the three component video cables would make any difference. The TV would not compensate for a large difference, and you would end up with a messy picture.

Q I recently went from a Yamaha RXV795 receiver and a Definitive Technology home theater system utilizing BP8s as the front speakers to a B&K AVR202 receiver and a B&W Nautilus system utilizing Nautilus 804s as the front speakers. The CD player I am using is a Yamaha carousel connected to the receiver with a Toslink cable (the only choice besides analog interconnects). The DVD player is a Toshiba 2108 hooked up with a DH Labs coaxial digital cable. My problem concerns the sound from my CD player. It is lean and missing low end response in comparison to the same CD in my DVD player which sounds much more full. I realize the Toshiba 2108 is moderately good at playing CDs, and I was genuinely surprised at how poor my Yamaha sounds. I am planning to buy a new DVD player that supports DVD audio, but I want to hold off until the there are ones that do both DVD-A and SACD in the same player, but I am probably six months to a year away from that. For now, will I get better sound out of my Yamaha with analog interconnects instead of the Toslink, or is it hopeless? I can't help but think the sound should be better than the Toshiba DVD player, and I am wondering whether it is worth it to spend the money on a new CD player, or try to improve what I
have currently and wait for a DVD-A player?

A Since the Yamaha and Toshiba players are both using the receiver's DACs, I can't see that as the problem. The alternative is to use the analog coax outputs from the CD player and see if that helps. I don't think a new CD player is in order here, because you are happy with the CD performance of the Toshiba DVD player. My suggestion is to see if using analog connections from the Yamaha improves it to your satisfaction, or just waiting for a DVD-A/SACD player.

Q I have a Denon AVR3200 which I love dearly. It has no DTS decoder, but has a set of 5.1 analog inputs. My DVD player JVC XV2000 does not decodes DTS either. My options are:
1. Getting a DVD player with a DTS decoder built-in (Pioneer 636).
2. Getting an external DTS decoder (Rotel RDA 985; Denon AVD 1000) and getting a new DVD player with DD/DTS stream out.
3. Trading in my Denon for a receiver with DD/DTS decoder built-in and getting a new DVD player with DD/DTS stream out.

In all cases I will have to trade-in my JVC player.

I live in ISRAEL and the prices here are much higher then in the US. In terms of money I will have to add:

Option1: $625
Option2: $700
Option3: $650 and going up: trading my 3200 for a Denon AVR-2800 which is similar (or not?) to the 3200 but has DTS.

A Since all your options are about the same in money spent, I would suggest getting the DVD player that has DTS decoding built-in. That way, when you eventually upgrade to a new receiver, you would not have to discard anything, such as an outboard DTS decoder, and you also minimize the number of jacks you have in between the player and receiver (an outboard decoder has a set of input jacks and a set of output jacks in between the outputs of the player and the inputs of the receiver).

Q I have a question regarding connections of my active servo subwoofer. I am currently using the pre-out subwoofer connection from my amplifier going to the line-level input of the subwoofer. This works fine with bookshelf speakers, but I am going to update my front L/R and center to larger speakers. When I select "Large" speakers on my receiver, I lose the subwoofer sound. Would it be best to use the front speakers terminals on the receiver to the sub, then from the sub to the front speakers, or select "Small" front speakers on the receiver setup?

A You are not really losing subwoofer sound, but simply directing the bass to the front left and right speakers when you set them to "Large". There is still bass signal going to the sub, but it is not as much as before. If you are getting floor-standing front speakers, then set them to "Large" and your subwoofer crossover to 50 Hz. If they are large bookshelf speakers, then set them to "Large" and your subwoofer crossover to 60 Hz  - 70 Hz. Continue to use the line-level subwoofer output jack on your receiver connected to the subwoofer.

� Copyright 2001 Secrets of Home Theater & High Fidelity
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