Q&A # 172 - April 11, 2000

Staff

Q I want a 36" Direct View TV for my HT. After comparison shopping, I found myself looking for a "higher end" TV for better features, picture quality and design. My first Choice was a Pro-Scan PS36600 around the $1,100 range. I was told that based on the lower end models, there was nothing available that would compete. When I inquired about the next step up, I was introduced to the 36" Sony Wega (this increased my initial layout by double). But I found that the features (flat screen, even better quality pictures and controls) were to my liking, and if I could choose between them, the Wega would win. A few days had passed and I wanted to check out a different retailer to cross reference the same information. I received similar comments to the one above except that I was also introduced to the Sony 34" HDTV with the 16:9 aspect ratio. When I inquired about the difference, I felt like the "end of the world" as I know it was coming. I was bombarded with info regarding new laws being enforced to broadcast digital TV programs and the proposed elimination of analog TV hardware production in the next 2 or 3 years. Also, in theory, the analog signal we use now will no longer be broadcast in possibly 5 or 6 years. I was also told of the benefits of this new standard (higher resolution  picture and Dolby 5.1 Surround sound capabilities). These are my questions: 1. What would be considered a "good return on investment" if I purchase an analog TV today? 3 years? 5 years? (Is there going to be a time where, although my TV is still operational, it can't be used any longer due to HDTV?) 2. Can you shed some light on the timetable regarding analog signals being discontinued? 2. Do you have any info regarding a "converter" of sorts that will allow an analog TV to produce HD quality and features? 3. In your opinion, which of the first 2 (Proscan vs. Wega) are truly worth buying if price were not an issue? 4. Is it really worth the $5,000 + to purchase an HDTV with a converter now? I am confused, and I don't want to make a poor investment. For at least the last 5 years, the size of the TV (minimum 27") was one of the only decisions to make. Next would be the quality of the picture. However now, there is a technology issue that is making this extremely difficult. More importantly, I don't want to be a slave to "upcoming technology" based on a salesperson's desire to make an even bigger commission. I want to do this portion of my home theatre right the first time. My hobby right now is building an awesome DVD collection (if that's a factor in all of this).

A The reports are that analog transmissions will stop in 2006. At the rate HDTVs are being sold today, I will be surprised if that happens. Even if it does, HDTV set top boxes (STB) can down-convert the HDTV signal to a standard NTSC signal. For about the same price as the 36" Sony Wega you can get a 40" 16x9 DTV ready Toshiba (TW40X81). However, out of the box, it does not look good. It needs an ISF calibration which will run around $250 for this style set. If you don't think you will get an ISF calibration, don't get an RP set. We are currently on 1st generation HDTVs, so prices will come down and quality will go up. Right now, HDTV broadcasts are few. Part of the material being broadcast is not even true HDTV but 480i being up-converted. High Def broadcasts will increase, but it's still a couple of years before we will have full time real HDTV. You will be perfectly happy with a standard direct view today. The Sony Wega is a nice product.

Q I have recently read so many reviews on power line conditioners with many different recommendations. I was wondering if you had the chance to compare the Panamax 2000 to some of the top other line conditioners out there.

A Our recent tests of the PS Audio Power Plant suggest that the effectiveness of conventional power line conditioners is not as much as could be hoped for. However, basic PLCs are useful for at least surge protection and automatic switching (turn on your receiver and other things, such as a DVD player, outboard power amplifier, and subwoofer then are turned on automatically). Once you get up to the $1,000 range though, the Power Plant or something like it is the way to go.

Q (1) I am a beginner in the area of home theater and have put together a system over the past several years that I am not completely satisfied with. I would like to start upgrading my speakers and would appreciate any advice you could offer. I am using Infinity RS 625s for the fronts, an Infinity Video 1 for the center, and a pair of Axiom bookshelf speakers for the rears. I have ruled out a sub for the present because I have a wife who doesn't see the need for lots of bass and a baby who sleeps right above my setup. (2)  I thought that since the center channel carries a great deal of the sound I would start there. I have been looking at both the Infinity C3 and the PSB Stratus C6. It seems like the PSB might be the better speaker. However, would I be better off sticking with Infinity in order to match my fronts? I keep reading how important it is to try and use the same manufacturer for all your speakers. (3)  Finally, is there anything in a speaker's specs which provide any hints as to the quality of the speaker?

A (1)  Ah, but that baby will really appreciate the sub in a couple years when you're watching DVDs together. Come to think of it, perhaps you need two subs? Really, though, if a sub is completely off limits (and that's a pity, since subwoofers don't have to necessarily sound like they're taking over your house with proper adjustment), then I'd look into replacing all three speakers at the same time if you're looking to get an immediate improvement. Sticking with the same brand is a good rule of thumb, since brands often have the same "matched" tonal character. The more ideal situation is actually using the same speakers across the front, or at least, speakers which are using the same midrange and treble drivers, with identical crossovers. If you're actually trying to create a reasonable soundfield with the front speakers, using a center speaker that's merely the same brand may be better than having completely different speakers, but it's almost like using your Video 1 for the left speaker, and one of the RS 625s for the right, in a 2 channel application. Sure, it'll work, and it might even be enjoyable, but at that point the performance of the speakers themselves isn't the issue, since they're simply not working as well together as they could. The same applies, to a lesser extent, to the rear channels.

(2)  I'd get the center speaker first for the reasons you state, if your priority is for 5.1 performance. However, I'd select the speaker system as a system, since you're planning on replacing all of them anyway. Find a system that sounds really good to you, with a wide range of material. If you can, even bring all three front speakers home to try. When you've found your magic set, buy what you can, and put off the rest until later. That way, you do it right, and hopefully, do it only once, or at least are happy for a long time until you do it again.

(3)  As far as what loudspeaker manufacturers publish in their specs, not really. For one thing, the published specs don't seem to be very strictly regulated, probably because the standards for measuring are not very standardized, fairly vague and unenforced. If you've got a relatively modest receiver (not all that heavy and only rated at 8 Ohms), you probably want to avoid speakers rated at 4 Ohm nominal impedances. Voltage sensitivity is important, usually represented as dB/2.83volts (1 watt @ 8 ohms) /meter, or sometimes but incorrectly dB/watt/meter, implying greater efficiency (more output volume for the power put in) but can also be easily misrepresented. Frequency response is a rough measure of how high and low a speaker can play, but it seems that manufacturer's may often massage the numbers to meet expectations and marketing. What actually happens in your room depends only on the real output of the speaker, which may or may not be represented by the specs, but the directional characteristics of that speaker, and how it interacts with your room. Bottom line: Collect information, listen to the sales pitch if necessary. Make a list of not only the speakers you like, but questions to ask when you are finished listening. Listen to a lot of the speakers that made the list with a lot of different listening material you LIKE. Keep in mind that sometimes great first impressions, like flashy dates, can be annoying after awhile. Cross speakers off the list until it gets small enough. Try to take the speakers you're interested in home some way or another, even if it's through a 30 day return privilege (specify money back vs. exchange if necessary). Be happy knowing you made a thoroughly informed choice.

Q I had purchased a Yamaha RX-V995 receiver and Definitive Technology Pro 400 speakers. When I increase the volume on my receiver to -25 dB, the speaker system shuts off. Could this be because the speakers are rated at 125 watts and cannot handle the power of my receiver? Also, if I were to move the Pro 400s to my rear channels rather than the front channels, what speakers would you recommend to replace them, preferably under $1,000?

A The Pro 400 towers have two 6 1/2" bass drivers that are powered by a built-in 125 watt amplifier. Since they are probably wired in parallel, giving a 4 Ohm load to the built-in amplifier, I suspect you are simply overdriving the speakers with low frequencies. In this case, it is not a problem caused by your receiver. It does not have enough power to overdrive the speakers. You could move them to the rear which would reduce the problem, since the rear hardly ever gets a lot of powerful signals. I would suggest something like the Definitive Technology BP-30s for the front. They don't have any built-in power amplifiers, and they are 8 Ohm loads, so your receiver should be fine with them. There is nothing wrong with built-in amplifiers, but for the low frequencies, you just need more power, especially if it is with 4 Ohm loads.

Q I recently purchased a Sony WEGA TV that has the worst geometry I have ever seen on a TV screen! This shows up on anamorphic DVDs that have slight black bars on top and bottom (it is a wide TV), and generally, when a straight line appears on a movie - the left part bends downwards while the right part bends upwards. I have taken the TV three times to the service cengter, but they say that the TV is OK and that I will get used to it! Any advice? Is this normal with these sets?

A It is very difficult to get a direct view TV serviced to eliminate problems like this. With rear projection TVs on the other hand, you can get these things manipulated. I have this problem on my Mitsubishi direct view TV too. It seems to be normal, and may have something to do with the image being right next to a completely blank area above and below..

Q I am getting ready to upgrade my Home Theater System. The system I am looking at purchasing is the B&K Reference 20 with the Reference 4420 (225 Watts Stereo) and Reference 4430 (200 Watts Three Channel) amplifiers. The Speakers I have listened to and love the sound of are the Martin Logan Cinema (Center Channel), Aerius (Fronts), and Script (Rear). Will the tuner/preamp/amp(s) handle the speakers I have selected for both music and movie selections? I listen and watch both equally. When I listened to the Martin Logan speakers, they were powered by Krell (unsure which ones) amps.

A Electrostatic speakers can make great home theater additions. However, they are difficult to drive because of low impedance (2 Ohms at some frequencies) and also because of low efficiency. I am in the middle of writing a review on Inner Sound's Isis electrostatic speakers, and was surprised to find them working just fine with 80 watt power amplifiers. The reason is that they have relatively high sensitivity (90 dB). So, wait until the review is published and check them out.

Q I recently heard about Surround EX and would like to incorporate it into my existing system. I would prefer to dust off my old Yamaha DSR -100 Pro Logic Processor, as opposed to purchasing a SMART Circle Surround EX or ADA 6.1 for that purpose. Could you explain how I would wire the system to function properly? I am currently using a Yamaha DSP E492 AV Processor (DD ready) and a Sony DVP S530D (with onboard DD Decoder). I also have an additional two-channel amplifier at the ready. I anticipate the purchase of a newer AV processor with DD and DTS decoding in the future. Your assistance is greatly appreciated.

A Fortunately, adding EX is easy (just not convenient). You will need to have pre-out jacks for the rear on your existing or new receiver to do it though. You take the pre-outs from the rear channels and input them to analog inputs on your old Yamaha. From here, you can go two ways. Just use the center channel output from the Yamaha to drive the center EX channel in the rear and use the two rear outputs of your new receiver as is, to drive the left and right rear channels. In this case, the rear left/right will have the EX info still in them, and the EX will have EX only. The other way is to use the front left output of the Yamaha to drive the rear left channel, the center output of the Yamaha to drive the rear EX channel, and the front right output of the Yamaha to drive the rear right channel. This way, you will have rear left/right with no EX, and the EX will be in the rear center. You should probably experiment both ways to see what you like. It all depends on how much discreteness you want in the rear between the three channels. Remember, EX info takes up some of the signal room in the rear left and right. When you remove it for use in the EX channel, the rear left/right will lose some of their signal. This is because EX is not a discrete channel. It is matrix encoded into the rear left/right.

Q I am in the market for a new receiver. I like the Denon 5700, but Yamaha is coming out with the new RX-V1 that will support Dolby-EX. Should I wait? My other question has to do with speaker packages. I keep reading how great the Energy Take 5 System is, but I also hear the Atlantic Technology 170 system is good too. I am in the military, and space is at a premium at this moment. I have a house but am not living there currently. I like something that would give me my money's worth but could also transplant back to the house when I get back. Also is there a particular reason you haven't reviewed any Atlantic Technology speakers?

A Both of the speaker packages you mentioned are fine. The Energy speakers are 8 Ohms nominal and 88 dB sensitivity, while the Atlantic Technology speakers are 8 Ohms and 87 dB sensitivity. Either set should work.

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