Q&A # 170 - March 29, 2000

Staff

Q I currently have a Yamaha RX-V795 receiver and was thinking of buying an amplifier. I have Klipsch speakers -- the fronts are KLF-20s (8 ohm, 100 dB sensitivity), the rears are an older 4 ohm, 90 dB sensitivity pair of KG4s. I remember seeing the Outlaw 5 channel amplifier (165 watts/channel) in one of your press releases a while back. The Outlaw is about $1100 which I might be willing to spend now as opposed to waiting until later to buy a more expensive unit. It is supposedly comparable to $2000 amps because it's only available over the internet and not in stores. Do you feel this is an adequate amplifier that will better drive my speakers or would my system perform better with a different amp? Another alternative is the Marantz monoblocks. I like the idea of these 200 watt amps because they provide isolation between channels, and each has its own power supply. At $500 each, would it be better to buy 2 or 3 Marantz monoblocks (who else makes monoblocks?) and add more later, look at a different manufacturer of multi channel amps (I've seen the Carver AV-705 mentioned in a product review for about the same price as the Outlaw), or go with the Outlaw? Also, I'm a little unclear about bi-wiring. I know there are people in both camps as to whether it's worth doing or not, but that aside, why is it any different using two cables compared to using one cable?

A As a preliminary observation, the Outlaw looks to be a good product when you consider it offers 165 watts x 5 into 8 Ohms. For that same price through regular stores, you don't get that much power. However, we have not had a chance to test it yet, but should be able to report on it when we get one. The Carver AV-705 is no longer made, but I am hoping that a similar product will emerge when Bob Carver gets the company going again.

Q I own a McCormack DAC deluxe. There seems to be some humming sound coming from the transformers. It's is a 110V AC version, and I use a 220 to 110 to step down the voltage (in UK). Could this be the problem? And regarding the cleaning of the laser lens, if there is grease, how should I clean it?

A I suspect the mechanical hum is caused by the transformer having to do its job with 50 Hz supply instead of 60 Hz. But, I doubt if it will cause any difficulties. If you want to clean your CD player lens, use one of the commercial products that consists of a CD with a little swab on it that you can apply the included cleaning liquid. The ones that have just a tiny brush on them will only remove dust, not oils. However, as long as you have not touched the lens to begin with, I don't think it has anything but a little dust on it.

Q Our good friend's child pushed in the the small center "cone" of my circa 1993 B&W speakers, and I an afraid to pull to get the soft vinyl material out. Are my speakers trashed? How do I fix them?

A Your speakers are not trashed, but you should indeed get that dust cap out to its regular position, since it affects the sound. The way I would do it is to take a sharp pin and push the sharp end into the dust cap, then turn the pin around and push the dull end through the hole into the cap. Then turn the pin sideways and push the cap back outwards from the inside. You may have to do this in several spots on the dust cap. After you are finished, you can put a small drop of fingernail polish on each pin hole to seal it, or just leave the holes there.

Q I am in process of upgrading my system from Dolby Pro Logic to Dolby Digital. I recently purchased a surround processor and am now looking at amplification. The sales people are telling me that I now need equal power to each speaker for DD. I am curious to know if this is true, especially when bass management can be set to restrict lower frequencies to the rear speakers and direct them to the subwoofer. If I have a 60 watt Adcom amplifier for the rear speakers and purchase a 100 watt - 140 watt 3-channel amp for the fronts and center (say an Acurus or Parasound), would I really be compromising the sound or impact?

A Bass management on most receivers does not allow setting the low pass crossover to a low enough frequency, i.e., 50 Hz. Above 50 Hz, sound can be localized, so using typical bass management where the low pass is about 90 Hz would mess up your soundstage. If you are not a big fan of action movies, or do not play your system very loud, just use normal bass in all channels, as 60 watts should be enough for the rear channels in most circumstances. However, if you are using really small speakers, then you will need to use bass management regardless of your power amplifiers and direct everything below 90 Hz to the subwoofer.

Q I'm looking to replace Adcom separates with a decent A/V receiver. My wife hates all the boxes to turn on. Around $1000 to $1200, any preferences between Denon 3200 and the Onkyo 777, and is there anything else I should look at? Also, how long before receivers offer Fire Wire ports?

A Probably go for the Denon AV-3300 rather than the 3200. The Denon TXDSD-777 looks to be a good product. The Yamaha RX-V995 also should be considered.

Q I own a Denon AVR-2700, and my question concerns bi-wiring. The receiver has two sets of front terminals: MAIN / A and BI-WIRING / B for the front speakers, and similar terminals for the center. I own a set of Mirage OM-10 speakers. How exactly do I bi-wire them? Which terminal connects to the high-pass and which to the low pass? Does it matter at all? What difference would it make sonically? I have a bi-wiring cable by Monster (2 inputs- 4 outputs). Would that solve the problem in a fair manner and save me the extra trouble and cable length?

A I have never found bi-wiring to make any difference, but that does not mean differences cannot be heard by anyone else. To bi-wire, you connect one set of cables to one set of speaker terminals on the receiver and to the tweeter terminals at the speaker end. Connect the second set of cables to the other set of terminals on the receiver and to the mid/woofer at the speaker end. You also have to remove the jumper bar that connects the tweeter and mid/woofer on the back of the speakers. You can use your Monster cables to do this, but you only need to connect the one pair to the Main/A terminals on the receiver, and then connect the other end two pairs to the tweeter and mid/bass as described above, again, removing that jumper bar.

Q I have an old stereo with a 7 channel equalizer. I am curious, is there a simple diagram or configuration to set the sliders? They go from + to - 10 dBs on 7 channels. I realize I do not have the best equipment, but I would still like to use what I have to its best potential.

A The settings will depend on your speakers and your room layout. However, when I use EQ, it is typically in the 80 Hz area to reduce boominess and in the 6 kHz area to reduce tizziness with voices and brass instruments. So, just put on a CD with a female voice and move the sliders until the voice sounds natural and pleasing.

Q I presently have a HT system consists of the following: Yamaha DSP-A1, Rogers GS6 (front), Rogers CC5 (centre), Rogers DB101 (front effect), Monitor Audio Monitor 3 (rear effect), REL Strata II (subwoofer), Pioneer DV515 (DVD player), Marantz CD63KIS (CD player), Sony LD/VCD player, Samsung 43" Rear Projection TV, AQ Midnight + (Front Speaker cable), UTP CAT cable (Self made centre speaker cable), double run cheap speaker cable (rear speaker), Illuminations D60 Digital cable for DVD-AV Amp, AQ Quartz for DVD Analog to AV Amp, Kimber Silver Streak for CD Analog to AV Amp, and Kimber OPT-1 for CD Digital to AV Amp. After listening for more than 1 year (80% music, 20% movie), I feel the music needs some improvement. I prefer sound that has life, great soundstage, and as real (TUBE) as possible. My budget set is about US$1K for upgrading either the amplifier/ DAC (for CD) or speakers. Please let me know how should I upgrade my sound system for Hi Fi.

A I would suggest getting a Class A Triode, Single Ended tube preamplifier. Everything else in your system sounds like it is OK as is. Check out the Audio Electronic Supply AE-3 preamplifier which is $399 as a kit or $599 factory assembled. Connect your CD player into the AE-3, or whatever tube preamp you buy, and connect the output of the preamp into the main-ins of your DSP-A1. Connect the pre-outs from the main front left/right into one of the other inputs of the tube preamp. Then, when playing CDs, use the tube preamp with the power amplifiers on the DSP-A1. When watching movies, switch the tube preamp to receive the pre-outs from the DSP-A1 and use your DVD or LD player to input to the DSP-A1 and DD or DTS modes.

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